원정 개요

Aeberli - 25 May 70

All arrived today ex-Lukla except Garbeis and Rolf Walter, all well. Exactly same route as Japanese. Found Japanese fixed ropes and oxygen bottles (not to use). 3000m fixed ropes from 5800m to 7300m

Very difficult last 400m ridge without fixed rope at this altitude - only man to summit.

From C4 7600m to 8000m without oxygen and to summit (8400m) with oxygen.

Only about 5 days good weather, others snow every day. From Lhotse Shar to main summit too far and not enough Sherpas for job and ridge too difficult unless big expedition and plenty of good weather.

Larcher and Sherpa reached 8200m and then oxygen mask of Larcher frozen and one man not able go alone because friends, etc and would have used rope very last 40m very steep part.


Shah, MFA - 19 May 70

13 May Larcher and Sherpa Sirdar Urkien attempted to reach summit, but on the way at 8200m found some difficulty with oxygen masks and were therefore unsuccessful.

22 May leaving base camp.


Liaison Officer - filed 18th.

BC - 5220m, 4 April
C1 - 5900m, 6 April
C2 - 6700m, 18 April
C3 - 7200m, 28 April


Shah, MFA - 23 March 70

Lhotse expedition reached Jiri on 20 March. Hoped leave Jiri on 22nd and reach Namche on 30th March


Siegfried Aeberli - 14 March 70

Leader and 1 other arrived KTM one week ago. 4 more arrived today; 1 more Dr. Gert Garbeis arrives next Saturday.

Leave KTM Tuesday - by road to Lamosangu and then trek in - reach base about 18 days with change of porters in Namche - 100 porters.

9 Sherpas including Sirdar Urkien Sherpa.

Leader has been here with Erwin Schneider twice but no high climbing in Nepal before.

Base 5500m on Imja Glacier behind Island Peak. From south side over East Ridge to summit 8383m; highest camp perhaps 8000m; expect 5 advance camps. 3000m of fixed rope to fix.

Japanese tried route in 1965 and reached 8000m - very difficult and very steep rock and snow.


Letter from Siegfried Aeberli - April 30, 1970

We are glad to let you know that we established Base Camp since 4/4/70.

We have in our team seven Sherpas, one cook, one kitchen boy who advanced because of his excellent service to permanent cook, as well as a few wood cutters and last not least one mailrunner.

On April 6 we reached Camp I at an altitude of 5900m. There we built a comfortable ice cage plus one tent.

Camp II is on a high of 6700m, the way up is extremely difficult and steep and on the whole route we have fixed ropes. Also there we have fixed ropes. Also there we have one ice-hole and one tent. There is a rope around the entrance of the tent, because the place is extremely exposed.

The way to C3 is at least as difficult as to C2 and already fixed with ropes. The camp itself will be establisehd within a few days at a high of about 7100m.

All the seven members are at present in the Base Camp and except one, who has slightly frozen his toes, but he is recovering.

Besides that we live almost upon fresh yak meat, which we get from a yak killed at BC.

The weather is until noon time always excellent, but in the afternoon usually snowing. The nights are not so cold; at Camp I we once measured 14 Degrees below O (Celcius).