원정 개요

Korthals-Altes & Wouters - 19 May 70

Technically not difficult climb. Everything very smoothly up to C4 6270m. Above to summit snow ridge and small ice wall and find ice field to summit; had to think while climbing there, while it was walking up to C4. 4 hours to summit for 1st party with bad weather and making route to 1-1/2 hrs for last party in fine weather and route already made. Called Liberation Peak because 25 years ago on May 5 Holland liberated by USA and Canadian forces.

All except Wouters leave KTM 20th and in Netherlands Sat except ??.


Noordyk - 4 May 70

All non-climbers here in KTM.

After last fall's Peak 29 expedition, potato crop failed and villagers had to go 10 days at least to Aurughat and back to get food. [Villagers angry and blamed climbers.] Japanese able to climb because responsible of Samans in Tibet with yaks.

So applied for NE Peak of Himalchuli 6550m (attempted by 1959 Japanese expedition unsuccessfully). April received permit. 4000-4600m base and C1 established on 25th having had plenty of time for acclimatization. Approach from southeast. 26th would try make C2 at 5500m and asked trekkers for another tent for a C3 at 6000m.

Trekkers reached Gorkha airport yesterday and arrived KTM today. All except journalist Hendrik Hovinga leave Friday.

Climbers return KTM 19 May via Gorkha.


Noordyk - 27 March 70

Noordyk and 15 arrive today and Wouters already here. Leave Tuesday am if expedition baggage arrives ex-NDH. 2 weeks to base camp about 5000m in upper Buri Gandaki above Sama village. Has Tibetan message for villagers in Sama from lama in Netherlands.

Try to find way up. Think will follow partly same route as Japanese towards Peak 29. 1st to identify whether Dakura exists and is perhaps same as Peak 29; probably whole range acclimatizing in Peak 29 and one of these is Dakura about same altitude as Peak 29.

6-8 really good climbers. De Graeff and Noordyk were not so experienced at high altitudes. Total 8 high climbers.

No oxygen; have equipment for 4 camps
Summit end April, early May.


1970 Netherlands Expedition

Sponsor: Royal Netherland Alpine
Amb + Neth-Nepal Friendship Assoc
Firm: private members

March-May 1970
Route: Arughat-Runiket-Barchan-Samagaon (if res permitted)-Dakara.
Nima Dorje = sirdar and member

Leader:
1) Johannes Adolf Noordyk
born 16 March, 1918 in Rio
Pediatric surgeon, medicine faculty Rotterdam
Waagdam 30, Warmand