원정 개요

Sato

South of Kanjiroba 2 main peaks - 6882m on 7th Nov 4 members reached summit.

Route Bijora Khola where put base camp across Patrasi Himal at 5360m col down to Jagdula Khola which followed south to C4. On Jagdula Khola is about one month which all members and 4 Sherpas reached. C4 established 26 Oct from C4 up ice glacier and icefall towards Kanjiroba South Main Peak South Ridge.

C5 5200m 3 Nov; very dangerous icefall just below C5.

C7 5800m 6 Nov on South Ridge; final camp most difficult route from C7 to summit: vertical long and steep and snow and very bad and very loose. Campsites difficult.

1st summit attempt 7 Nov: Left C7 at 5:00 am with headlamps; reached summit 3:30 pm and left 4:30 pm and weather became bad (very strong wind and white-out). Decided at 6:30 to bivouac 100m from summit at 6800m. Very cold, very hungry, very thirsty; no frostbite. On 8th Nov continued down to C7 going very slowly because very tired; reached C7 1:30 pm, all 4 together with help of leader and Sherpa Phurkipa.

Had planned that leader and Phurkipa and 2 others would be second attack Nov 8, but 2 went up to help late returns and therefore cancelled 2nd assault and returned to base.

Members trekking: Okuda, Goto, Sawai

Returned to Kathamndu via Surkhet after 16th Dec. Others waiting for STOL to bring to KTM 9th Dec.