원정 개요

Ogata, Fukuoka - 20 Nov 70

Came to KTM alone today; seats very difficult so others may come by car. Ogata will stay until Nov end.

"We were deceived by the map and then by the real mountain." Our route too long to reach Dhaulagiri IV.

Tried to reach from southwest and made C6 at 6900m near Junction Peak of 23,320 ft; first followed same route as Gurja Himal and then north of Dhaulagiri VI to reach Junction Peak (7108m).

C4 due west of Dhaulagiri VI and then west and up face north of Dhaulagiri IV and found prominent peak north of Dhaulagiri VI. On 25 Oct this north peak reached by Nakashima and Nabeyama and they reported seemed easy to reach Dhaulagiri IV peak. They climbed what they called Gama Peak (Ogata's nickname at medical school); this peak probably the 7100m peak.

Found very difficult to reach Junction Peak because very narrow ridge of very strong winds and seemed almost impossible to carry loads there; tried until 3 Nov to fix ropes and make route.

Meanwhile 2 Sherpas and Koga and Nakashima climbed Dhaulagiri VI on 1 Nov from C6 to have better view of Dhaulagiri IV finally gave up because afraid supplies too low; no one could see any signs of Austrians. Their last camps site flat and wide enough for tents, but many crevasses and very rough; could be seen from base and Dhaulagiri VI. Said Austrians must have been very good climbers because face they climbed to last camps very steep and icy.

BC 4100m
C1 4650m
C2 5000m
C3 5750m
C4 6060m
C5 6350m
C6 6900m

"Possibility from our C5 there might be direct route to reach rock [Junction] peak but is very steep blue ice so would take many days making route."

Took us 30 days to make route and establish C5; need more fine days so pre-monsoon better but might be difficult to get porters across pass to BC site.

Also might be possibility from north but didn't see much of this side.

No accidents and no serious illness.


Fukuoka

Same route as Kansai University expedition up to C3: southwest route western ridge.

Total 8 camps because ridge very long.
Base at Kaphe Khola
8 Sherpas says Motherland.


Dhaulagiri IV

Base camp to be near Gurjakhani
Route from Ghustang Khola and west