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Lyon and Avignon Winter Expedition Nepal 1986-87 to Ama Dablam

Ama Dablam · 1986 · 겨울 (4) · France

원정 개요

BC at normal site for South Ridge above Mingbo
ABC near lake at bottom of South Face
C1 under 1st crevasse at bottom of South Face
High point on South Face.

Hoped to make C2 on South Face at about 6100-6200m in route directly up face to summit. Hoped to reach a small span (snow ridge) and put tent there since no place to camp on face at this altitude because very steep (50-80 degrees) but wind drove them back, broke tent at C1. Down to BC then on 12 Dec up again but again wind broke C1 tent and snowfall followed 13th evening. Lot of snow on 14th and 15th so abandoned idea of attempting Cholatse as well. Fixed 1000m on face. Should have made alpine-style ascent in fast climb. A good route.

  • 내부 원정 ID247
  • 원본 EXPIDAMAD86401
  • 대장Roger Massardier
  • 루트 (Route)S Face (to right of Yugoslav rte)
  • 최고 도달고도6100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유악천후 (4)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Roger MassardierFranceLeader---
Bruno GuibertFranceClimber---
Bruno RebelleFranceClimber---
Corine Rebelle-FrereFranceExp Doctor---

출처·참고문헌

Cheney, Michael J. & Hawley, Elizabeth · 1986 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198722803/Asia-Nepal-Ama-Dablam-Winter-Attempt · 1986 · 웹사이트 (5) ·