원정 개요

All 5 climbers arrive KTM today.

Believe Koreans reached ony 7000m on East peak because their highest camp at 6300m and not possible to reach summit East Peak from there.

Japanese C5 - 6600m
C6 - 6800m highest camp
From C5 to top took one day up very steep

Japanese on 24 Oct members Masayoshi and Hasegawa reached summit Central Peak 7371m from C6 at 6800m.

26 Oct - 2 Sherpas and Doma reached Central Peak summit
28 Oct - attempted traverse ex-C6 to main peak (West Peak) 7371m
- successful also Hasegawa again and Sherpa Sirdar Ang Norbu

C4 - 6300m
C3 - 5650m
C2 - 5310m
C1 - 4700m
BC - 4100m

Approached from southeast in Central part of massif. South Face looked very steep from base, but found route by approaching from southeast (Italians had turned by west). Future attempts should try southwest side direct to main peak; if had more fixed rope would have tried this route.

Stay KTM one week

After 2-3 Dhaulagiri IV will reach Pokhara; Tukuche expedition 1 week to Pokhara.


Shah, MFA - 12 Nov 70

Left base 3 Nov, arrive Beni 9 Nov
All well; successful or not, not given
(Sherpa said to have climbed alone, according local paper)


GB Shah, MFA - 6 Oct 70

Churen Himal expeditions leader brought to KTM yesterday report of Fukuoka expedition's establish C1; he's not well and is returning to Japan, leaving KTM tomorrow (and not returning to Nepal, according to Matsezawa).

West Peak of Churen Himal summitted on 28 Oct:
Kozo Hasegawa
Ang Norbu Sherpa