원정 개요

BC at normal site
ABC little above East Rongbuk Glacier
C1 at bottom of North Face for Japanese couloir attempt
Second ABC at normal site for normal route attempts
Biv near North Ridge
High point near North Ridge.

M Todaka first acclimatized on Changzheng to its 6950m for peak, which reached on 13 and 14, returned to ABC. Made C1 at bottom of Face for Couloir attacks but new snow came every night from Lho La and after one attempt up North Face, reaching only 6400m on 25 Aug, decided on 5 Sept to go to normal route.

12 Sept went to normal route ABC 6400m and in night tried to go to summit via North Col. 3:40 am 13th started up alone and got to 7600m where in afternoon avalanche passed 2 meters from him and back to normal ABC, 14th to North Face ABC. Then to Lhasa to rest (17-23 Sept in Lhasa). Cook took to BC his North Face ABC while he was in Lhasa. 26 Sept afternoon to normal route ABC again. 27th 3:40 am started up again and reached 7800m at noon, rested (no sleep - had no sleeping bag), now windy, 8:30 pm started for top; 10:00 pm at 8000m, stopped by very strong winds and retreated to 7800m where put up his small tent. 28th 8:00 am to BC. Waited till 2 Oct but cold and windy so now climb finished.