원정 개요

C1 at North Col.

Intended to put C2 at 7800m but winds stopped progress above 7600m where all 8 climbing members (except Gine) reached from C1 on 15th Sept. Forecasts now said 7-10 days bad winds so all down to 22nd BC to wait. 5 days later 6 members up; they reached 28 Sept only C1 and again winds above them sent them back. Again up to C1 on 4 Oct by 3 members to open route to C2 but not above C1 again and climb finished.

2 experienced Sherpas left said they would leave expedition 25 Sept, saying agent didn't give pay to them. They stayed on but Sherpas and members almost came to blows.