원정 개요

High point on North Ridge.

"Big change on Everest - people think all you need is two fingers and nose to go up" - Troillet. All expeditions this autumn had telecommunications equipment to communicate with outside world; more talking less climbing on Everest now. 7 telephones at BC (Swiss also had one but it stopped early). Did not put camp at North Col. 1st camp above ABC was at 7800m; it was slept in on 29 Aug in 1st attempt for top and on 30th reached 8700m in dark night and went too far to left, get near Pinnacles and at 5:00 am at light, realized where they were so too far from summit to reach it before 1:00 pm and turned back (Schaffter, Roduit, Apa Sherpa and Krishna Tamang in this attempt) and returned to ABC and next day to BC to rest at low altitude.

Another attempt 13 Sept from ABC in night and stopped at 7500m because avalanche danger (Apa, Krishna, Ang Pasang, Phur Tenzing, Schaffter and Troillet with Todaka Japanese team).

Last attempt by Troillet, Apa, Ang Pasang and Krishna. Apa took oxygen and used from 8300m. Ang Pasang got altitude problem and Krishna who carried oxygen for other 2 Nepolis to 7800m, turned back. Just behind Troillet were 2 Colombians and 2 Sherpas and turned back at about 8200m. Troillet and Apa reached 8700m above snow at summit pyramid and back: Apa said here at 11:00 am was too late to get top to top at 1:00 pm and Troillet soon agreed too dangerous to continue alone and both down; his intention was to snowboard down so did, from 8700m to ABC (from 11:30 am to North Col 5:00 pm down again from Col shortly and arrived ABC at 6:00 pm): left ABC in night of 26 (2:30 am) and been to ABC on 27th.