원정 개요

C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on West Face
C4 on West face 200m below couloir.

C1 had one night only and then moved up. C3 tent also moves up on 6 Oct to make C4. Big wind storm night of 5th; planned to go for top that night but had to spend night with knife in hand and crampons on boots in tent expecting to have to get out immediately as wind buffeted tent. At 4:00 am Ochoa decided to start down C1 hour before daylight) and Ochoa got wind-burnt nose while struggled against windblown snow and took 3 hours to reach Basques C3 (normally took less than 1 hour) where winds not so terrible. In C3 French Everest's Pelle warmed their fingers and gave warm liquids. Down to BC on 7th.

10th up again to C2 but hurricane winds and all teams had to take down all tents; those not taken down were broken. Down to BC on 12th and climb finished. Only chance to reach summit was on 25th Sept but 2 members with Ochoa in C3 not acclimatized (Ochoa came from Pakistan) and not safe for one man to try for top alone.