원정 개요

BC just south of Barun Pokhari
Biv1 at South Col
Biv2 just below SE Ridge on variation of normal route
Biv3 on SE Ridge
High point at SE Ridge.

Until end Nov did acclimatization climbs from BC. 1st Dec started up first 3 days slept on S Col while went above and then down to BC leaving tent at Col packed up. 6th Dec up again in summit bid and slept at S Col. 7th Dec up by variation of normal route (descended normal way). 9th Dec to 7500m on ridge but not possible to go further because of wind (not terribly strong) and clouds that badly restricted visibility ("we could not see"), so returned to 7400m to sleep. 10th Dec stayed at 7400m, again windy (strong wind now) and cloudy. 11th Dec again to 7500m but down (now lightly snowing and cloudy) to 7200m. 12th Dec to BC in strong wind at 11:00 pm arrival. Waited till 19th (20th clear weather!). Not difficult route. Did not attempt S Face at all (original objective); decided impossible for 2-man team in winter.