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Tibet 1997 Italian Cho Oyu Expedition

Cho Oyu · 1997 · 가을 (3) · Italy

원정 개요

Scaccabarozzi -> 12 noon CST, 9:45 NST walked 1 hour 30 min after hump. Was at plain to summit, reached summit and saw old oxygen bottle. He filmed with video film. Clouds overtook him, did not see Everest, Lhotse. He started from C3 ended at C3. Started at 5:30 CST.

Cemmi, Perego reached summit at 18:50 CST. Started 11:00 CST started at C3 and ended at C3. Spent 15 minutes at summit. Met 10-15 people coming down. Don't know whether they reached the top. Ukrainian, US, Sherpas, Japanese (4) with 1 woman also with masks who did not reach summit. Could see Everest, Lhotse, Pumori, Nuptse. Saw oxygen bottle (reddish). They were the last climbers. Skied from C3 down 200m on 27 Sept. Again skied 200m from C2. Took 1 hour from hump to summit.

Airoldi at 14:40 Nepali time, left C3 at 8:40 NST was with Burgoa, who stopped at hump because tired. Took 1 hr 30 minutes from hump to summit. On left was Everest. Tibet plain was clear. Saw oxygen bottle reddish colour, blue cover (no. 300 stamped on the bottle). At 8100m 3 persons. 1 was Sherpa, 2 Americans (1 man, 1 woman). He thinks they reached the summit. There was no one after him.

Claudio Mastronicola - according to Saunders of Himalayan Kingdoms team 10 Oct, it took Claudio 9 hours to reach C3 from C2; Saunders not with him on 3-4 Oct when Claudio had to be rescued after he slipped 50-100m, unable with frostbitten fingers to help himself with fixed rope (may lose tips of his fingers). It is very doubtful Claudio went to summit; others on Cho Oyu agree.

Magliano of other expedition led by Mondinelli, 12 Oct: Very doubtful he (Claudio) summited; people with binoculars saw no one move up from C3 or down to C3 at any time on 1 Oct and he was found to have cerebral edema as well as frostbite, He was "strong" mentally and abandoned by his expedition, all others of whom were fanatic Northern League members (in Italians politics) and he from southern Italy.

Asselin 21 Oct: 2 members of Asselin's expedition, Thierry and Lacroix, went up from C1 with 2 Sherpas in the night to rescue him but he refused to come down; later some members of other Italian expedition went up and persuaded him to come down, and Asselin's expedition doctor took care of him.

  • 내부 원정 ID2413
  • 원본 EXPIDCHOY97308
  • 대장Giacomo Scaccabarozzi
  • 루트 (Route)NW side from N
  • 최고 도달고도8188m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 19명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Giacomo ScaccabarozziItalyLeader성공--
Marco AiroldiItalyClimber성공--
Marco AnghileriItalyClimber---
Luis BurgoaItalyExp Doctor---
Nicola CarusaItalyExp Doctor---
Giorgio CemmiItalyClimber성공--
Marco CortiItalyClimber---
Andry Dell'OroItalyClimber---
Siro FaustinoniItalyClimber---
Claudio GhezziItalyClimber---
Pietro IsacchiItalyClimber---
Eugenio ManniItalyClimber---
Claudio MastronicolaItalyClimber---
Ulderico MazzoleniItalyClimber---
Marco PeregoItalyClimber성공--
Emilio PrevitaliItalyClimber---
Anouk TanchisFranceClimber---
Alberto ValsecchiItalyClimber---
Alberto VarniItalyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1997 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1997 · 잡지 (3) · HIGH
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199835301/Asia-Tibet-Everest-Various-Activity-on-the-North-Side-and-Cho-Oyu-Various-Activity · 1997 · 웹사이트 (5) ·