원정 개요

BC at 4100m very near Yugoslav BC Aut 1985
Biv2 at 7700m just 100m below where they joined ridge.

In last days of Nov, looked around glacier, found couloir as ascent route and did some training. Started up on 1st Dec and on 2nd explored in areas of Biv1. 3rd back to BC after deciding on 2nd that route wanted to follow to left of MacIntyre route because too exposed for light, fast climb. Up again on 6th Dec at 12:30 am and reached to Biv1 at 6:00 am. Next day left 00:01 hrs. Climbed at night because in day light looking up too depressing to see how far you still have to go. 8th Dec left Biv2 at 9:30 am and got to top at 1:24 pm and down NE Ridge till returned to Biv1 site at 5700m at midnight 9th Dec at BC.

Morani didn't feel well, not strong; left BC 5 Dec.

Only 2 bivouacs: 1 on Col and 1 on face at about 7000m. Will start climbing at night with head lamps. During acclimatization in Nov will cache equipment at bottom of face (down from Col on large plateau at bottom of face). May climb to left of MacIntyre-Kurtyka route and reach summit via SE Ridge. Technical problems not great: the problem is the wind, so lost part of climb at highest altitude most exposed to wind, most difficult.