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Polish-American Winter Kangchenjunga Expedition

Kangchenjunga · 1985 · 겨울 (4) · Poland

원정 개요

BC at 4700m Ramzar
AC at 5100m 200-300m below Japanese BC and same site as Polish, Yalungkang 1985
C3 at Great Shelf or a bit above it.

Kukuczka and Wielicki arrived BC 20 Dec. Team to BC for Christmas climb. Only 4 high camps because problem with tents which frequently broken by wind and heavy snow, but still summiters went to top and back from C4 in same day. Found 3 yellow oxygen bottles on top. Difficult last mixed limbing to top and old ropes were very helpful to indicate which way to summit. Were crevasses causing difficulty in lower part of climb. 4 men went to C4 but Czok coughing, not feeling well and on 11th he went down with Piasecki while Kukuczka and Wielicki to top.

No more summit attempts. Kukuczka, Wielicki, Czok and Piasecki had on 3 Jan carried to C4, slept C3, and planned to occupy C4 on 4th, but weather bad on 4th and all 4 down to BC.


Kangchenjunga, Lorentz - 7 Jan 86

Base at Ramche yak huts
ABC 5200m by advance party about 5 Dec
C1 6100m
C2
C3 on Great Shelf established about 20 Dec

Kukuczka and Wielicki arrived ABC about 22 Dec and would have taken only 2 days to get to C4.

Weather very good untll Xmas Eve; snow up to knees at Ramche on 27th and shoulder high 2 days later when he had left Ramche.
All well, no one ill, no accidents.
Surely going to succeed.

  • 내부 원정 ID240
  • 원본 EXPIDKANG85401
  • 대장Andrzej Machnik
  • 루트 (Route)SW Face
  • 최고 도달고도8586m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 19명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Andrzej MachnikPolandLeader---
Krysztof PankiewiczPolandDeputy Leader---
Piotr BednarczykPolandClimber---
Andrzej (Leszek) CzokPolandClimber--사망
Grzegorz FligielPolandClimber---
Artur Henryk HajzerPolandClimber---
Robert JanikPolandClimber---
Zdzislaw KiszelaPolandExp Doctor---
Julian KubowiczPolandClimber---
Jerzy KukuczkaPolandClimber성공--
Alexandra Lewis-LorentzUKBC Support---
Casimir LorentzUSAClimber---
Jose Luiz PaulettoBrazilClimber---
Przemyslaw PiaseckiPolandClimber---
Boguslaw ProbulskiPolandClimber---
Michael Gregory SkorupskiUKClimber---
Zbigniew TerlikowskiPolandClimber---
Krzysztof WielickiPolandClimber성공--
Ludwik WilczynskiPolandClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Nyka, Jozef · 1985 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
Kangchenjunga Climbed in WinterMachnik, Andrzej · 1985 · 학술지·저널 (2) · HJ
My Vertical WorldKukuczka, Jerzy · 1985 · 단행본 (1) ·
English edition of "Na Szczytach Swiata"
Kukuczka, Moj Pionowy SwiatKukuczka, Jerzy · 1985 · 단행본 (1) ·
Posthumous biography/autobiography
Na Szczytach SwiataKukuczka, Jerzy · 1985 · 단행본 (1) ·
Posthumous biography/autobiography
Zima na Trzeci Szczyt SwiataMachnik, Andrzej · 1985 · 단행본 (1) ·
· 1985 · 잡지 (3) · MM
Kangchenjunga - Winter '85-86Wielicki, Kryzsztof · 1985 · 학술지·저널 (2) · IM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198621502/Asia-Nepal-Kangchenjunga-First-Winter-Ascent-and-Tragedy-1986 · 1985 · 웹사이트 (5) ·
https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/3/kangchenjunga-climbed-in-winter/ · 1985 · 웹사이트 (5) ·