원정 개요

ABC deposit camp (not slept in)
C1 on East Ridge
C2 on East Ridge.

Wanted to put C3 at 7300m on East Ridge but big icefall above C2 forced route to traverse to right to plateau at 6700m and then planned to go up to ridge, but afraid of avalanching above. Had much new snowfall and tents broken in C1 and C2. Parts of ridge difficult knife-edge. Fixed rope from Deposit camp turn back point. Team who reached highest point stormed in C2 waiting for wind to drop but then big snowfall and everyone on team down to BC. Now stayed in BC till 8 Oct. 9 Oct up from BC 2 members and 6 Sherpas to C1 but very dangerous avalanching. 10 Oct arrived at C2 but again much snow. 12 Oct down to BC and climb finished.