원정 개요

BC at Mingbo (English went more slowly to BC on 30 Dec)
C1 at normal site east of South Ridge
C2 at end of horizontal section
High point at yellow step.

6 Dec Gabites and Staszewski were to go to top but had moved up too fast and Staszewski clearly sick from altitude and Gabites spent rest of day bringing Staszewski from C2 to 19,000 ft on horizontal section. Next day English and Perry joined in getting him to BC in bad condition.

8 Dec English to C1 and on 9th Perry and Gabites joined him there. 10 Dec the three got to 19,000 ft on horizontal section when strong wind forced them to camp there at 11:00 am; 2:00 pm Perry decided to descend with chest infection while other two stayed all night in continued strong wind. 11 Dec big clouds plus up high strong wind, went along ridge to just below yellow step when winds struck and appeared storm coming up so English opposed to going on (were without sleeping bags and it appeared would have to spend 2 nights out) so turned back and by 4:00 pm English blown off ridge, fortunately clipped to fixed rope and camped again.

12th Dec carried gear to C1 and to BC 13th Dec.


English - 22 Dec 85

English feels that Gabites and others rushed too fast to and on the mountain. They had rigid pre-set time table that required them to climb mountain very quickly (like Nairz's party in aut '85) and be finished by the time the wives, girlfriends and children arrived. Time table did not take into consideration the health of individuals the health of individuals and their time requirements for acclimatizing. English had booked return LUK/KTM for 4 Jan and was astonished to learn on 11 Dec when he and Gabites debated whether to continue push for top or go down in face of storm brewing up that yaks had been ordered to come to BC on 17 Dec.