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BC 2 hours west of Saipal
ABC at snowslope of East Face of Raksha Urai III below East Ridge
Depot below icefall below SE Face of Raksha Urai (not slept in).

Raksha Urai has 6 summits, southern west summit is called Dhulagari 6632m. Deep gorge between Dahachaur and Goranphu, one day's trek south of Saipal village. To go to Raksha Urai or Dhulagari, is best to go via valley directly from Goranphu. 4 of six peaks are entirely rocky, but Raksha III and IV are snow domes with ice face or ice ridge - rock not stable. Raksha IV is exceedingly steep - depot reached on 6th and gear left this but slept in ABC. Now snowfell 3 days and 3 nights but then weather cleared and 10th up from BC to ABC for attempt to climb but ABC almost completely destroyed, but after rebuilding it slept there. 11th 4-member summit attack team went up but all slopes unstable snow and everywhere avalanches; 2 reached depot and cleared it and did clean mountain. On 3rd meanwhile 4 from ABC onto snow ridge to icefalls and stopped here; trying to get onto snow routes to same peak, Raksha Urai IV. Another approach route would be from Simikot, shorter and at higher elevation, but not sure there is a pass to give access to Raksha Urai. Most days via route used rained in afternoon.

Possible to climb and from Salimor Khola, south of Nampa, to west side of Raksha Urai peaks.

Police checkpost established at Dhulli said this team 1st foreigners to reach the post ever.

High points reached:
to depot at 5100m on Raksha Urai IV:
5th Oct - G. Mussnig, W. Mussnig, Simmler and Wieser
11th Oct - U. Lackna and Pokorny

to 5200m on Raksha Urai III:
3rd Oct - M. Lackner, Pokorny, Schiechl, Zoehrer

Only these members listed above went above ABC.