원정 개요

BC at normal site for NE Ridge route
C3 at bottom of Pear
C4 nearly at top of Pear
High point at NW Ridge.

At C3 and above no good places for camps, so had to dig away snow to make small sites for C3 and C4 on very steep snow face. 18 Oct reached NW Ridge at 7500m and intended to pitch C5 near that point but down to C4 and on 19th and 20th down to BC because wind and snow. After this reached only C2 because heavy snow fall (BC 1m - high altitude 3.5m) and winds. At C2 on 1 Nov only to retrieve gear, not to make progress higher on mountain.