원정 개요

Biv on first ascent
C1 at snow cave
High point at NE Ridge.

10th Oct down to BC. 15th Oct with Ukrainians to 7000m fixing rope and down to BC on 16th and resting 3 days longer. Had problems getting to BC from Marpha; had no Sherpas and could find few Marpha porters to help ferry loads across deep snow in passes to BC. Were very slow climbers. Had to bivouac at 5000m on way to establishing C1 at 5800m; always climbed together. On 22nd Oct were going up again but half-meter new snow fell that day.

12 Nov 97 - Ukrainians said the three Russians climbed with the Ukrainians and abandoned their attempt at the same time and high point as Ukrainians.