원정 개요

BC at lower classical BC site
ABC at normal C1 at base of West Face
C1 at normal C4 site
High point at plateau.

Wind broke tents at ABC and had to retreat. On 3rd Feb went up again (Hans and Messner following Moro and Sherpas who pitched new tent at ABC). On 4th Feb Hans, Reinhold and 4 Sherpas to 7000m but no tents pitched because too strong wind (Hans buried in crevasse one Frenchman from Makalu II autumn 1985) and returned to ABC.

On 8th Feb again up to 7000m early on the only really fine day of the climb. Slept there with 2 Sherpas and 2 film-team men. 9th Feb started 2-day push to top with 2 Sherpas carrying and cameraman following part way. At noon Hans and Reinhold reached Makalu 7410m col and 1 hr higher, saw no possibility of going higher still in cloud-obscured route and high wind, so turned back. Were on plateau mostly green ice. Returned to 7000m camp where now begining to snow and descended to ABC on same day. On 11th still snowing and descended to BC where more than half meter of snow.

No accidents, etc.
3 cameramen went above ABC

Found bodies of Frenchmen Pierre Demolombe and Marcel Margaine on Kangchungtse at 7100m and 7450m.