원정 개요

If Japanese fail, Austrian team led by Franz Huber of Landl, and Dhaulagiri II 1971 have applied for next spring.


Dr Tanaka - 27 May 72

All that survived arrive today and in good health.

C4 highest camp; route beyond 20 fixed ropes (each 50m). All fixed rope from C1 farthest point reached on 28 April at about 6000m (200m below C4) by Matsui and Kuichi and 1 Sherpa. 28th both very tired from their climbing. That night both had bad coughs and couldn't sleep. Next day rested in C4. On 30th 7:00 am they said on walkie-talkie to all camps they would go to C2 or C3 that day but 9:00 am or after very slowly putting ob boots and getting ready, but then until 12:00 doesn't know what happened, sleep or unconscious and when revived at 12:00. Matsui in same position at entrance struggling with boots; Kiuchi put Matsui into sleeping bag and very hot and wanted water to drink; soon Matsui became unconscious and breathing very short and shallow. Dr going down and doesn't hear news on walkie-talkie contact at noon.

Yagi and 1 Sherpa making route beyond about C4 at this time. Matsui at 12:45 stops breathing and heart stops. At 2:00 Yagi returned about C4 and Kogure arrives from C3 and on walkie-talkie contact from Yagi and Kogure that Matsui dead and Kiuchi very tired, cannot walk.

Dr leaves C3 for C4 3:45 pm and arrive C4 at 5:55 pm and saw Matsui dead and Kuichi face very much swollen (moon faced) and severe cough and short breath; every 2 hours injections prosolin and other medicine, including sedative so can sleep and thus able go down. May all members from C4 to C3 where is oxygen and more injections; with oxygen and medicine next Kuichi can walk. From C3 to C2 very difficult and dangerous knife ridge and snow face; arrive C2 on 2 May about 6:00 pm.

3 May bad weather and all in C2.

4 May to base camp. Dr. and Kuichi and 5 Sherpas. Kuichi still on injections. Now Dr. realizes some eyesight defect and other effects, all now almost gone.

May 5 - 5 members and Sherpas up to C4 and put Matsui's body in crevasse near C4.

May 8 - expedition decide abandoned further climbing because 1 member dead and 1 ill and route very long and dangerous.

Route possible but very difficult and need many members and many Sherpas and good weather and good luck; may require C8 and 12 members, 15 Sherpas.

Weather this year good but by 9 or 10 o'clock cloudy and snowy in higher altitudes.

Found fixed ropes of Austrians and last years Japanese but no tents or bodies.

No other accidents.
Stay KTM 1 week and then to Japan.


GB Shah - 5 May 72

1 member D-IV died
Takajuro Matsui
30 April at 6 pm at C4 6200m
Dr. said death of pulmonary edema
C4 established 26 April
Baglung Police greather LO
Whether continuing or not known; if fail another Austrian to try.


Tanaka - 26 Feb 72

Hamana goes to Pokhara and returns Japan, not to base camp. Leaves KTM after about 1 week but not sure; cargo not here but all members are (Hamana, Tanaka and T. Kobayashi in Shanker); may go by truck, maybe by air or half and half caravan to BC 2 weeks route same as Austrians: Kanabon Khola to Kanabon Glacier and thence to point 6280m and onwards; will put one more camp than Austrians on sharp knife ridge (between C2 and C4 on this expedition's map).

Maybe too difficult last part of climb below summit and may need take small tent to point AC on map for spending summit night on return to C6.