원정 개요

BC half day above Samagaon
Biv1 near Naike col
Biv2 on NE Face
Biv4 in crevasse on face (no wind in crevasse).

9th Dec first summit attempt reached 7200m, then high wind and very cold and returned to BC same day. 10th Dec BC and 11th Dec up again to 6150m biv site of 7th Dec. 12th Dec little snowfall and did not move 14th Dec, 8-1/2 hours climb to top. Left biv at 3:20 am and on top 11:40 am in strong wind. Near top very cold wind. That night in 13th Dec bivouac which reached 3:30 pm but no food since had spent extra day on ascent. 15th Dec to BC, where only 1 tent and 1 Sherpa, and on to Samagaon, which left 17th Dec. Technically not difficult but too far from last bivouac point to top. Below 7000m not colder than autumn, but above very cold and windy.

No fixed ropes used, true alpine-style climb.

At summit found match box with names and date of 11 May 1956 summiters in Peace and cigarettes with stones (probably from Japan).


The Iwa-to-Yuki

The author and Yasuhira made an alpine-style ascent of Manaslu in Dec 1985. This was the second winter ascent, following that of the Poles. Yamada climbed K2 in July and Everest in Oct, both without oxygen, and then made elaborate plans for the perfect alpine-style ascent of Manaslu. Yamada and Saito helicoptered to Sama on Dec 2nd to join the sirdar and loads, having caravaned beforehand. BC was made on Dec 5th. They set about climbing next day, but the weather deteriorated three days later and forced them to retreat from 7200m. Taking one day's rest at BC, they later resumed activity and after three bivouacs reached the summit at 11:40 am, Dec 13th. On the top they found a tin for cigarettes containing the register of the Japanese party which had made the first ascent of the mountain. This was a big bonus for their remarkable feat of this time.