원정 개요

Matsushima - 3 June 72

Matsushima and Sawada arrive today; Komiyama and Kimura await another flight.

Only one summit attempt made. C4 established 29 April by Kimura and Takahashi. Arrived 4 May then from C4 on West Ridge at 5:30 started for summit with bivouac bag. West Ridge very steep and very difficult followed ridge almost all way to summit from col. Route already made halfway above C4 but knew would take 2 days to summit.

4 May night bivouac at 6500m. 5 May between reached summit 12:30 and stayed 1 hour for photos and sketches, left flags.

Started down together 1:30 pm, same route down. Kimura down first abseiling and waiting for Takahashi who started down. 5 or 6m from ridge west of summit, fixed pix came off and he fell down onto north face 2000m. Not possible to reach him: no equipment or manpower and anyone can't survive such long fall; like falling out of airplane.

Sawada and Sherpa Sona up in support and helped Kimura down from 6300m 5 May.

Matsushima little rib pain. Komiyama hurt knee but now all right.

Same route as British; fixed their fixed rope.


Matsushima - 3 March 72

Dhangari 3 days
4 week caravan
Arrive BC about 3 April
Summit 27 April + 5 days lee way
Finish climbing - 1 May return to BC


Matsushima - 21 Feb 72

Expedition leaves in charter Dakota
27 days caravan to base camp
35 days climbing period of research for mapping and dental conditions
Arrive KTM 20 July
Mail via Trans-Himal Tour


Matsushima - 17 Feb 72

He arrived today and 4 others 10 days after 10 days; expedition to fly to Dhangari on 1 March in charter flight with 1300 kg baggage. 3 Sherpas.

Route via Chamlia and Nampa Col. 2 camps on glacier and C3 perhaps same as British C3 site. Perhaps C5 not necessary but will carry 1 small tent to C4 for possible need beyond C4. If possible will put C2 on Col but maybe Col too far. Route via West Ridge.

Would like to know from Allen re snow rock ice conditions of West Ridge and nbr of Sherpas - steepness above C3 50-60 glacier.

West Ridge seems only route: South Face 3000m very steep and East Ridge has very difficult icefall and other problems.

Expedition's route to and from the mountain: Kathmandu by air to Dhangari-Doti-Chamlia Khola-base camp-Chaubishi-Seti Khola-Talkot-Jumla-by air to KTM.


British Manchester Expedition to Nampa

Climbed via West Ridge. Highest point reached was 20,500 ft where C5 was pitched.