원정 개요

Takahashi - 17 May 72

7 members arrived today by plane and all others will by bus later today. Climbed South Ridge 600m ice face and then 800m summit by South Face. Summiters Aoki and Ang Norbu. Attack camp at 6400m to summit on 28th April. All fixed rope up 70 degrees ice face and from C4 up surface most difficult part summit face's ice (300m) and rock (500m). About 60-degrees steepness. All members in turn put in fixed ropes up snow down and South Face.

Long circular route between C2 and C3 under hanging glacier. Made temporary C4. Halfway up ice face. Used oxygen for climbing.

From attack camp summiters left 4:00 am and on summit 8:30, stayed 1-1/2 hours. Up lift all fixed ropes - only 3 pitches had to put in themselves. Day before Takahashi and 1 Sherpa had put in rope up to 7100m; finished late: 3:30 pm at this altitude, so quit and returned to C4.

2 members to summit. No other attempts.
No accidents, no sickness, no trouble.

Clear mornings, afternoon and night every day snow, but no avalanches: only difficult, no danger.

Takahashi comes Nov for winter climb Annapurna South Face; he maybe climbing leader; from Rakusei Club, Tokyo.


Takahashi - 27 Feb 72

Putha Hiunchuli

Takahashi and Chigai arrive today. 6 more arrive 5 March (they arrived as scheduled). Leave KTM for PKR 8th March; caravan 14 days.

Climb PH via South Ridge untried route via Kaphe Khola. BC at 4100m with 4 more camps at 6400m, maybe one more (biv tent at 7000m) with summit attempt 5th May. 4 Sherpas.

S Ridge involves 800m pillar just below summit; rock ice mixed with fixed rope all its height.