원정 개요

1st to Chhukung and to Lhotse Glacier 5400m preferably Austrian Lhotse Shar base camp. Plan to reach 6220m saddle, where would put advance base camp but 600m very steep wall west of saddle not possible for porters. Why Austrians and Koreans not interesting to Lenser because already done by others. Wanted to do East Ridge of Lhotse which not yet climbed and still hopes to do this.

Then thought to go to Khumbu Icefall but then heard of troubles with Everest expedition between Sherpas and members (heard from Sherpas at Chhukung) and didn't like to go there because would not be independent.

Then went back to Khunde and arranged with few porters. 4 Shepras to Mingbo to 5400m height. Made camp there and stayed 2 days there. Very bad weather. Returned to Khunde on 12th and waited there for reply from RNAC for early flight to Tumlingtar. 13 days from there to base camp and had to reach it in April or not at all this season. Sherpas now have left equipment in Khunde and ready to go to Barun Glacier in early Sept maybe with Tumlingtar flight, maybe walking but sure to reach base camp in time via Sedua and Makalu expeditions route up Barun Glacier and east side of 6220m saddle. When above this ridge in upper parts will need fixed ropes. Maybe with 1 or 2 more Germany members. Holz also coming.

"Very much disappointed" when found ice wall; preferred reaching saddle. Stays KTM 9-10 days and then to Germany.

Lenser said ice wall too difficult for Sherpas and would take 2 weeks to put in enough fixed rope to enable them. Wants to approach Lhotse from Makalu side.

Did not raise permit question, only airlift to Tumlingtar and time required to reach base.


Gerhard Lenser - 12 March 72

Point 7500 - Shartse
Point 7589 - Peak 38

Expedition's route: Imja Khola to Lhotse Shar Glacier or across col north of Cho Polu (Hardies Col) at 6220m and north there along ridge to Pts 7500 and 7589m. Then problem: from Lhotse Shar to Lhotse possible.

If snow and avalanche bad, may try via W Cwm. Only 2 climbers, Lenser and Holz.


Lenser - 9 Feb 72

Cargo due Bombay 20th Feb. Lenser on 17th Feb Bombay.
Imja Khola - SE Ridge of Lhotse.


GB Shah, MFA - 9 April 72

Message of 5th April from Namche requested permussion for Lenser party to go into Kosi Zone (Sedua). Reply to LO allowing him to go into Kosi Zone should have gone to Namche today.


Aeschluia - 8 April 72

Lenser said ice wall too difficult for Sherpas and would take 2 weeks put in enough fixed rope enable them. Wants to approach Lhotse from Makalu side.

Did not raise permit earlier, only air flight to Tumlingtar and time required to reach base.

Lindsay Strong - 31 March 72

"The Lhotse party left here (Khunde) last Monday (27th March), and by now they should be well established in their base camp."