원정 개요

Hawley Reuters Dispatch - 14 Apr 72

Three persons, one Korean and two Sherpas, survived huge avalanche that completely destroyed Koreans C3 (6500m) on Manaslu early morning of April 10.

Korean is Kim Yae-Sup who actually survived five avalanches and gale force winds that terrible morning and who briefly recounted his horror to Reuter's this morning in Shanta Bhawan Hospital here while nurses gently bathed in warm water his badly frostbitten feet. He was brought to Kathmandu ex-basecamp by helicopter this morning with the expedition leader's eldest brother Kim Jung-Sup and the expedition's reporter Yun Byung-Hae who were not at C3.

The avalanche took the lives of four Koreans, one Japanese and ten Sherpas. One Korean dead was climbing leader Kim Ho-Sup who had vowed to conquer Manaslu this time and recover the body of another brother Kim Ki-Sup who died last spring at 7600m on the same side of Manaslu from fierce winds that swept him off his feet. Other dead are Oh Sae-Keun, Song Joon-Haeng, Park Chang-Hee, Japanese photographer Kazunari Yasuhisha, nine high-altitude Sherpa porters and one Sherpa cook.

Kim Yae-Sup said he woke about midnight that fatal night to make some hot water and to prepare for an early climbing start. Two Sherpas commented to him that there had been too much snowfall. They were worried about snow conditions on the mountain-side. At about 3:15 am, Kim heard the terrible noise of the huge avalanche and woke two members in the same tent and they tried to get outside, but the avalanche struck first and they were carried 800m downwards from C3 (at 6500m) with three shattering bounces before on the 4th bound they stopped moving.

Both Kim's companions were still alive and spoke to him: Park said whole the midsection of his torso was crushed and his spine broken; Yasuhisha told Kim his left rib and right shoulder were broken.

Then another avalanche struck them, burying Kim's two friends and carrying him 300m further downwards.

Three more avalanches hit Kim, but he survived with frostbitten feet and fingers; possible internal injuries not yet known. "I think I am very lucky boy and God is with me," Kim said this morning in the hospital bed. Kim's family are Christians.

There were four other tents in C3. In one were three Koreans, Kim Ho-Sup, Oh Sae-Keun and Song Joon-Haeng and two other tents held ten Sherpas. All perished in this disaster. The expedition is not continuing. Four surviving Koreans are still in the mountains and will return with recoverable baggage.


Kim Yae-Sup - 14 April 72

Very big snow and ice avalanche destroyed 5 tents and 1 kitchen at C3 at 6500m at 3:15 am 10 April. 2 Sherpas say too much snow.

Japanese and Park Chang-Hee in same tent and he woke them up and tried and go outside. Avalanche carried them 800m down in 3 bounces and on 4th stopped. Japanese says right shoulder and left rib broken; Park said whole body cut and spine broken.

At C3 2 Sherpas clearing snow from tent and now alive. 9 Sherpas and cook in 3 tents at C3 and they died. Other members in C3 in another tent.

Another avalanche came and covered his 2 companions and he was swept 300m more down. Had altogether 5 avalanches and very strong winds. "I think I am very lucky boy and God is with me."

Frostbitten fingers and feet, extent of injuries not known. At Blue Star: Yun and leader. They were not at C3; climbing now ended.

Dead members:

1) Kim Ho-Sup
2) Oh Sae-Keun
3) Song Jong-Haen
4) Park Chung-Hee
5) Kazunari Yasuhisha (Japan)


Kim Ho-Sup - 10 Feb 1972

12 members altogether. 5 arrive KTM today. 1 to NDH for prepare gas. All arrive 20th except leader Kim Jung-Sup (his elder brother) who will come later because very busy businessman but comes for brother's sake.

Expedition leaves KTM 25 Feb by truck to Trisuli Bazar.

Caravan and climbing route (NE) same as last year. East side technically no trouble but last year "swimming in snow" and terrible wind driving snow into face - "man's power nothing against terrible wind."

Reach base 10 March.

I know already where crevasse and icefalls are bad already fixed rope up to 7600m so by mid-April 1st attack party will be sent up.

5 camps with highest at 7700m or 7800m (100 or 200m higher then last year, so summit attempt far their easier).

If succeed bring back younger brother's body and brought special box to return him to Korea for burial; also to bring body down, brought snow boat.

3 brothers and 1 brother-in-law in this expedition
10 Sherpas
10 other porters up to C2

Kim Ho-Sup's son born one day before reached Churen East Peak summit.


Names of dead Sherpas (as provided by Pemba Tshering Sherpa, a HA-porter on the expedition):

Sirdar: Pemba Rinji from Jorsale (aka Lama Ngawang Chultim)
Second Sirdar: Rinji Wangel Sherpa from Phaplu, Solu
Climbing Sherpa: Ang Tendi from Thami


From Rising Nepal - April 15, 1972

"The ten Sherpas who met with their tragic fate were Sardar Pemba Rinji, second Sardar Rinji Wangel, 28-years old Ang Mingma, 37-years old Angmingma, Andrita, Pasang Nima, Angtendi Ang Dawa, Phurba Tenzing, Gyalze and Wangel Kook."