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Yugoslav Expedition to Mount Makalu

Makalu · 1972 · 가을 (3) · Yugoslavia

원정 개요

ND Shrestha - 6 Oct 72

Makalu expedition established C1 at 19,500 ft on 7th Sept C2 21,000 ft and 6 members had reached 24,000 ft while making route to C3.


Kunaver - 24 Aug 72

1 full flight today. Last flight tomorrow at 1:00 pm Twin Otter.

165 porters - 25 Aug 72
Leave Tumlingtar 26 Aug.


Kunaver - 22 Aug 72

4 members already in Tumlingtar today. Today 3:11. Yesterday 8.

Tomorrow about 5 more days after expedition leave Tumlingtar 25th Aug. About 10 days to base at same site as French and Japanese. About 5th Sept arrived probably five high camps. If follow French route, sites exactly known.

"It would be very pleasant to finish summit 20th Oct. After that date the winds starts to blow a bit stronger. If choose southern side, will take longer as more affected by monsoon's ending and more difficult pioneering required."

Mail in Sept via RNAC Biratnagar until Tumlingtar flights start.


Kunaver - 19 Aug 72

Plan to climb Makalu via S Face to either from Japanese route at 8000+ meters. Otherwise study French route. Depends on conditions: rock falling, etc.

Scientists with expedition including Kunaver's brother.

Sirdar+ 5-6 French Makalu Sherpas. Total 10 Sherpas with hopes 4 will go very high, 6 shuttle from base to advance basecamp.

45 climbing days, summit mid-Oct.

  • 내부 원정 ID2362
  • 원본 EXPIDMAKA72301
  • 대장Ales Kunaver
  • 루트 (Route)S Face
  • 최고 도달고도8100m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 14명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ales KunaverYugoslaviaLeader---
Janez (Janko) AzmanYugoslaviaClimber---
Stanislav (Stane) Belak-SraufYugoslaviaClimber---
Janez BrojanYugoslaviaClimber---
Danilo CedilnikYugoslaviaClimber---
Janez GregoriYugoslaviaMember---
Zoran JerinYugoslaviaJournalist---
Jure KunaverYugoslaviaMember---
Janez KunsteljYugoslaviaClimber---
Matija MalezicYugoslaviaClimber---
Marjan ManfredaYugoslaviaClimber---
Borut PircYugoslaviaExp Doctor---
Frank StupnikYugoslaviaClimber---
Tone WraberYugoslaviaMember---

출처·참고문헌

· 1972 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
MakaluKunaver, Ales · 1972 · 단행본 (1) ·
· 1972 · 잡지 (3) · MM
· 1972 · 잡지 (3) · MM
MakaluDyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman · 1972 · 잡지 (3) · MM
Na Vrh SvijetaKunaver, Ales & Andlovic, Joze · 1972 · 단행본 (1) ·
MakluKunaver, Ales & Kunaver, Dusica · 1972 · 단행본 (1) ·
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348103/Asia-Nepal-Makalu · 1972 · 웹사이트 (5) ·