원정 개요

Pollet-Villard - 16 Nov 72

Members Yves Pollet-Villard, Jean Coudray, Yvon Masino, Georges Payot to summit 3 Nov; Maurice Gicquel, Pierre Blanc, Raymond Renaud and Ang Temba on 4th to summit. Doctor did not go to summit.

Terrific snow and big wind defeated summit attempts between 26 and 30 Oct, by same team as on 3rd Nov. They waited one day in C3 and then down to base again up on Nov 1. All camps Ok except C1 where tent was destroyed but went straight then to C2 and C3.

"Very difficult" route. All a long way, no platform; always nearly vertical; 60-65 degrees at least. 2 days to put one tent because no platform and made platform in ice C2 and C3. South Face directissima.


Shrestha, MFA - 2 Nov 72

Reached 22,770 ft 25 Oct
Bad weather, rest to C3 and will try again 3 or 4 Nov.
All well.


Jan Boar - 26 Oct 72

All members in base camp 21-22 Oct for rest. 3 camps already established on South Face. Perhaps a 4th camp would be needed. Any day after 23rd wanted to go up through camps to summit but cold, winds and cloud were problems.

20 Oct C3 6600m this the last camp before the summit from leader received 24 Oct by Michelle, French embassy

C1 established 29 Sept 5400m
C2 established 5 Oct
6100m at the foot of the rock face which constitutes a different point in the climb

Expected progress stopped by bad weather which closed down on the area Friday and Saturday 6 and 7 Oct. All members returns to base camp. Return of good weather should allow resumption of progress, i.e., to climb over the rock face, to install C3 at about 6400m by the end of the week. The whole team is well.


Shrestha, MFA - 1 Oct 72

Pumori base camp established at 17,030 ft. No date given, message sent on 27 Sept.


Thomas - 18 Sept 72

With other flight at 9:15 today carrying Payot and 1 other member, all Pumori members have now left KTM for Lukla.


Payot - 9 Sept 72

Leader and doctor arrive today others tomorrow. Tues-Friday to Lukla for baggage and Saturday members and Sherpas.

Pumori technically more difficult although not so long route. 6000 ft straight up from base, their routes on Pumori.


Gicgeul & Payot - 4 Sept 72

Base camp at Gorak Shep about 5200m. Climbing route South Face. 4 high camps with highest at 6600m.

If face dangerous, try SW Ridge.
"Too steep, too difficult that's no problem."
No oxygen for climbing.
Summit attack end of Oct - first of Nov.
Chose Pumori because very difficult and very nice mountain.
3500 kg baggage, 150 porters
8 Sherpas
All members from Chamonix except doctor from Paris
3000m or more fixed rope on face
Leave KTM 12-15 Sept by air to Lukla if possible
All other members arrive 9 Sept

Lenser says Pumori South Ridge is possible. "150m very steep and very difficult but possible in good weather."

Lenser intended climb by this route in '62 but every day very strong wind.