원정 개요

Buttin & Amy - 6 Nov 72

All members arrive KTM today.

Dhorpatan to Japanese BC in 4-1/2 days. Our base above Japanese BC at 4400m northwest of Ghustang and used Japanese fixed rope to glacier (Japanese very good gentleman, very amiable).

C1 at 5000m
C2 5700m
C3 6500-6600m

Fixed rope up spur to ridge 13-14 Oct; 18-19 to top of spur on 21st Oct. First group to summit and down by C3 and established on 21 Oct.

C2 placed 3 times: 7th, 9th, 12th
On 21 summit: Mathieu, Sarthou

Soubis and Buttin and 2 Sherpas and Mrs Buttin made C3 on 21st so they could make ascent next day from C2 1/2 on West Face. This route was Japanese route.

Very difficult from C3 up to top of sugar (on 21st) but along ridge very easy but very sharp ridge with cornice and strong wind from west.

Very easy via West Face: from C2 to C3 1/2 very deep snow only; above C3 1/2 steeper.

Had hoped send others to summit, but 3 weeks from BC to summit and porters arrive BC 24 Oct so no time for others to try summit because had to return to KTM. Did not know about this pass. Leave KTM Sat.


Shrestha, MFA

21 Oct Sylvain Sarthou, Benoit Mathieu reached peak.
22 Oct Mr and Mrs Buttin, Soubis, Sirdar Mingma Tsering and Pasang Sherpa.


Amy to Rieffel - 19 Oct 72

C5 5000m
C2 5700m
C3 6500m
20-21 assault towards summit
24-25 leave base camp.
Expect 12 days to Pokhara and arrive 5 Nov and proceed as rapidly as possibly.


Mathieu & Amy - 21 Sept 72

All to Pokhara Today execept Buttin, Amy and Mathieu who go on Sat 23rd in RNAC Pilatus Porter charter with Emil Wick to Pokhara for 5 shuttles on Sat and Sun to Dhorpatan and for aerial survey by Buttin, Amy Soubis, Jillot and Machieu.

3 or 4 days to base from Dhorpatan via Gurja village and thence to west and southwest of Gurja. On base same members walk from Pokhara starting tomorrow:

Mrs Buttin
Leroudier and wife
Fresafond
Sarthou

Brocard will climb a little: to C1: is a climber (Alps and Peru)
Mrs Buttin can go higher; she hopes to go to summit

About 1 month for acclimatization and climbing. 3 or 4 camps certainly above base and advance base.


Mathieus & Thomas - 16 Sept 72

We left Lyons 27 Aug. 3 days in Lahore waiting for Thursday border opening. In truck with all baggage. Reached Nepal border last Sun. Reached Pokhara after 3 days and baggage in Pokhara. Aarrive KTM 14 Sept.

Rest of expedition arrive KTM Monday RNAC. To Pokhara Wed or Thursday.

Gurja routes now difficult so don't know exactly their approach except south is out of question. Will charter Pilatus Porter to make aerial survey and decide whether via northeast or northwest. Will attempt main peak (22,599 ft), same as that climbed by Japanese in 1969.