원정 개요

BC northwest of Lum Teng (between Lum Teng and point 4698 on Schneider map)
C1 at same site as Japanese 1982 on narrow ridge bet "g & G of Karyolung Glacier
C2 after traverse to northeast from C1 to site E of "H" of Shorang Himal
High point at north of summit.

Climb started late because leader had accident during autumn trek. Left KTM only on 3 Jan.

Three summit bids:

20 Jan on Japanese route to 6200m, but blue ice turned party back.

22 Jan on right side of Japanese route to north of summit, but again turned back this time by 3m wide crevasse and all to BC.

23 Jan Ko and Ahn to C1, followed 24 Jan Pasang and Ang Tsering to C2. 25 Jan 4:00 am Ko and 2 Sherpas set out for summit and at overhang near crevasse Ko took hours to make route and Ang Tshering turned back early evening and in descent serac hit Ko's arm.

26 Jan snowfall and all BC waiting better weather but now Pasang and Ang Tsering not in good condition and manpower depleted, bad weather.