원정 개요

Sakaguchi - 7 Nov 72

Arrive KTM 4 Nov all members

BC - 30 Sept - 5070m
C1 - 8 Sept - 5350m
C2 - 13 Oct - 6050m
C3 - 16 Oct - 6700m
Summit 17 Oct by Matsuyama and Sirdar Lhakpa Norbu

Only one summit attempt. Weather bad and members feeling high altitude and low spirits (homesick). So Sakaguchi felt should go down to Tukuche Village. Very lucky decision because day we withdrew (23 Oct) terrible blizzard. At BC very clear but over Thapa Col much snow, so if stayed 1 or 2 days longer could not have left BC.

Climbing not so difficult, "easy but part of difficulty was high altitude, no oxygen". Reached Tukuche village 25 Oct evening and stayed 3 days.

Arrive 4 Nov. All well, no accident or frostbite.
"We search yeti but we cannot see."

Found Pilatus Porter wreckage in Hidden Valley.


Sakaguchi - 13 Sept 72

Will climb Tukuche Peak (6920m) itself by northwest side (via Thapa Col and ridge off east of Dhambush).

5 members in Nepal. Leave KTM 15 or 16 Sept and return KTM about 10 Nov. Pokhara to Tukuche bridge about 1 week. Bridge to base camp 3 days with luck.

C3 highest camp about 6400m, summit about 20 Oct.
Sirdar, 3 Sherpas, 1 cook and kitchen boy.