원정 개요

Sahashi & Pritchand - 31 Oct 72

Trekking to Tukuche: Fujiwara, Ito, Sakaue, Aoyama
Matsuo in Pokhara 4 days.
Sahashi and Pritchard ex-Pokhara by 9-10 hours today.

14 Oct Matsuo and Sirdar Nawang Samden on summit at 4:00 pm, followed 30 minutes by Aoyama, Sakaue and Fujiwara.

16 Oct Pritchand, Ito and Kanchha Sherpa on summit about 1 pm. Sahashi attempted, reached 7100m and then feet got very cold and tired.

C4 at 6400m highest camp, established 9 Oct. Next days to make route, fix ropes. Bad weather on 6th and 7th: wind and heavy snowfall. Took Pritchard 3 hours longer than used on 1 run. Not exceptionally easy; moderate climb, but can be extremely difficult: if more ice could have been technically quite difficult. Did not use easy SW Ridge. Up rather steep (40-45 degrees avalanche [chute?]).

South Ridge, essentially same route Seppyo Party used in April 1972.

No drastic incidents, accidents or illness.

When going up to C1 Sherpas said there's a yeti, but Pritchand couldn't see. Mixed snow and rock with lot of rock. 1 of Japanese Sakaue said he saw it but long way away and small. Pritchard did see tracks and Pritchard now believes in Yeti. Not a small bear, not like any normal mammal. Saw tracks up and down slope across path from BC to C1 in bad snow at 4800-5000m on 3 Oct and 19 Oct half mile apart. 2nd tracks Japanese also saw. Pritchard worked in woods as forester and is accustomed to looking at tracks. 12" long x 5" wide, curved down at end like fingers: doesn't weigh as much as I do and I weigh 150 lbs; looks like 80-lbs Donald Duck in bedrooms slippers. Sahashi himself did not see yeti or tracks but believes in yeti.


Shrestha, MFA - 24 Oct 72

Climbed on 14 Oct at 4 pm
Hiroyuki Matsuo
Sirdar Nawang Samden
Other 5 members climbed on 16th
Fujiwara
Y. Aoyama
K Sataye
D. Ito
James Pritchard
Kanchha Sherpa


Sahashi, NC - 26 Sept 72

Putha Hiunchuli
18 Sept BC 4500m
21 Sept C1 5050m
26 Sept C2 5500m
about 28 C3

Jim trouble with his ears so he at base and leader also not so well and at base.

Dhaulagiri IV - will be finishing climbing in 15 days; very big snow on 24-25 Sep, 25 cms deep.

Sahashi saw Yeti, no details.


Sahashi - 31 Aug 72

Sahashi and Fujiwara to stay KTM today. All others Pokhara by air today.
Sahashi and Fujiwara to Pokhara tomorrow. Start caravan from Pokhara on 2 Sept.


Sahashi - 27 Aug 72

1 arrive today; Minoura not coming to Nepal because of auto accident.
Sahashi = Deputy Leader
30 or 31 to Pokhara; 3-4 days later from Pokhara; arrive BC about 15 Sept.

West Ridge very hard for us so we search West Ridge, maybe South Face.
Summit attack 9-12 Oct.


Fujiwara & Pritchard - 16 Aug 72

Base Kaphe Khola, same approach as this spring's expedition. On to South Ridge and then perhaps via South Face or possibly over South Ridge and onto West Ridge. Probably repeat this spring's route but decision to be made when get to the mountain. This expedition planned 1 year ago, before this spring's success.

This the 1st YMCA Alpine Club in Nepal.
8 members and 3 Sherpas + 2 kitchen boys.

Leave KTM about 30 Aug to Pokhara on scheduled flight; leave Pokhara about 3 Sept and arrive base about 15-16 Sept.

4 camps planned above base (but Pritchard expects at least a bivouac if not another camp in addition).

Summit attack 10-12 Oct.