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Doriyu Mountaineering Club Annapurna Expedition 1972

Annapurna South · 1972 · 가을 (3) · Japan

원정 개요

JOM Roberts - 3 Dec 72

Annapurna South top is huge absolutely flat snowfield perhaps 2 miles long, so Japanese in autumn 1972 not really a failure - just trudged ahead. They climbed the mountain but not to the highest bump on the summit plateau.


Tada, Yamamoto, Hashimoto - 7 Nov 72

Annapurna South has 3 peaks: North, South and Central
7219m Annapurna South - 1964 and 1970, 1971 expeditions

We wanted to climb South Peak, but we have no time, so we climbed Central Peak.

If we could go from Central to South Peak and return, 3 more hours on very easy route, but no more time; reached Central Peak at 2:10 pm on 21 Oct by Tada, Yamamoto and Yoshido.

1964 also climbed Central Peak, but French only South Peak as came from South Face from C3 to C4 very difficult, fixed 1000m rope; very steep and hard ice mixed rock. C2 to C3 brought avalanche, seracs and crevasse, difficult to find route. Heavy snow also and C2 tents broken by heavy snow and avalanche 6 Oct.

No accidents, frostbite or yeti. Leave KTM 12 Nov.


Shrestha, MFA - 30 Oct 72

Summit reached by 3 who established C4 at 14:20 hours. No oxygen used.


Shrestha, MFA - 29 Oct 72

C4 - 18 Oct 6250m

3 members in C4: Yoshio Yamamoto, Kojo Yoshida, Leader Yuzo Tada


Yosida, et al - 27 Aug 72

Leader, deputy leader and last member Hashimoto arrive today.

Leave 31 Aug to Pokhara by road all together; 2-3 days in Pokhara leave 4th or 5th Sept and arrive BC 13th.


Yoshida & Yamatamoto - 15 Aug 72

Rest arrive on 25 Aug via Thai and all leave on 27 or 28 Aug by charter to Pokhara. 1 week caravan to BC arrive about 13 Sept to climb by East Ridge of Annapurna South. BC on Annapurna Glacier and route then onto ridge running in from Hiunchuli. 4 high camps, C4 at about 6600m; summit attempt 25 Oct.

5 Japanese and 5 Sherpas.

No member has climbed in Nepal before.
Same route as Chiba Institute last autumn.

  • 내부 원정 ID2355
  • 원본 EXPIDANNS72301
  • 대장Yuzo Tada
  • 루트 (Route)E Ridge (Central Smt, 7150m)
  • 최고 도달고도7150m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유부봉 등정 (2)

참가자 5명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Yuzo TadaJapanLeader---
Hajima TsurumiJapanDeputy Leader---
Sinro HashimotoJapanClimber---
Yoshio YamamotoJapanClimber---
Kozo YoshidaJapanClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Yoshizawa, Ichiro · 1972 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
· 1972 · 잡지 (3) · MM
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197348502/Asia-Nepal-Central-Peak-of-Annapurna-South-or-Moditse · 1972 · 웹사이트 (5) ·