원정 개요

Captain Chester - 29 May 73

Most of others left base camp. Ageta and Co at base camp at beginning of Yalung Glacier, waiting for helicopter since Sunday at least.

Ageta, Tazuke and Higuchi arrive today. Ageta right hand and both feet frostbitten - feet not so serious: toes 1st joints; 4 fingers right hand 2nd joint to strong [?] of frostbite.

Could find only broken shaft of ice axe of Matsuda, but not body near deposit point of oxygen at 8100m. Highest of final C5 almost 8000m; returned to 8300m on 14th May after summit.

Summit 6:00 pm 14 May. Stayed 30 minutes and started down and forced to biv about 8300m. At 6:00 am could 2 men at biv walking. We watched from base camp. Weather very fine and watched between am and evening accident happened.


Higuchi - 14 Feb 73

6 members arrived KTM 8 Feb.
3 members now in CCU (Calcutta).
6 now in Dharan.
Caravan starts from Dharan.

20 Feb 6 members in KTM fly to Dharan 16 Feb. Establish BC 20 March on Yalung Glacier. Climb via middle SW Ridge of mixed rock and snow. 6 high camps with summit attempt mid-May.

10 high altitude Sherpas.