원정 개요

Yamada & Ostuka - 11 May 73

Kuniaki Yamada, Shigeru Watanabe and Suemitsu Otsuka on today by bus; other 3 tomorrow from Pokhara.

Ostuka and Pasang Sonam turned back; bad weather ice seracs falling, very dangerous in this condition; glacier below had many big crevasses.

North Ridge route very difficult and very long, so changed route to Ganesh Glacier route on east side. Changed route 1st April to route of 1964 Kyoto U as far as C2 and thence new route more east of 1964 autumn but west Doriya 1972 autumn route. Very steep ice wall from C3 and C4.

One member hit by ice block on back left side his head 6020m while making route above C3. Had to go down to C2 and 3 day rest there; now Ok and even went to C5.

Could not reach summit because bad weather; much snow and danger from falling ice seracs. Ostuka thinks this route possible only in April (early).


Ranjan - 5 May 73

Annapurna South leader wrote Ranjan on 26 April that if they had not reached the summit by 28th April, they would abandon the attempt. They would reach Pokhara on 10 May and came to KTM probably by bus.


Yamada - 9 March 73

All 6 members arrive today.

Route via Annapurna South North Peak; new route not attempted before; whether difficult or not, don't yet know.

5 Sherpas including sirdar.

Leave KTM 15 March by road; leave Pokhara 17th, 10 days caravan to BC on same site as British South Face expedition 1970.

5 high camps: C5 at 7000m
Summit 10 May, 4 summiters