원정 개요

Tsukamoto, Horiuchi & Sonam Ishi - 28 May 73

Tsukamoto, Horiuchi and Sonam Ishi arrived today by car from Pokhara.

Killed: Takahashi, Hama, Ushigoe, Katagiri and Chong Rinji Sherpa from Solukhumbu (Junbesi).

14th May - 1st attempt on summit. Ushigoe and Pasang Norbu, reached 50m from summit and came back, tired.

15th May - 2nd attempt by Furihata and Chong Rinji Sherpa. Snow and very strong wind gusts. Came back to C5 and while returning Chong Rinji became sick.

16th May - to C3 and Sherpa very sick and used much oxygen, almost died.

17th May - about 3 pm very heavy snow which started 12 noon. In C4 4 members and Pasang Norbu and 3 members and 5 Sherpas in C3; all night heavy snow; C3 very dangerous site with new snow avalanche.

18 May - all came down, C3 people to C2 and C4 tried for C2. That day many big avalanches every minute. 1st avalanche hit C4 people between C3 and C4: 3 men hit by main avalanche: Sadatoshi Takahashi, Masanori Hama and Kazumi Katagiri at 11:30 am and they were swept away; Masakatsu Tsukahara and Pasang Norbu safe and returned to C4. C3 people going down: another avalanche hits Tadashi Ushigoe and Rinji 14:40 hours and they also were lost.

Takashi Furihata and Tsuyoshi Shintani and 4 Sherpas Ok.

Other members on way to Pokhara - reached there 3 or 4 June.

First tried NE Buttress and make 2 camps and tried make C3. Reached about 6500m in route making but big crevasses and big seracs and many daily ice avalanche. Abandoned this route 20 April.

Changed route to British Army 1970 and same their fixed rope find or not quite same as French route.


ND Shrestha, MFA - 27 May 73

Tried to scale but when 50m remaining to top, weather became very bad, snowfall, so gave up and returned but while summit team returned from C4 on 18 May, avalanches swept away 4 members and Sherpa between C2 and C3 and their bodies could not be found. Dead were:

1) Masanori Hama
2) Kazumi Katagiri
3) Sadatoshi Takahashi
4) Tadashi Ushigoe
5) Chong Rinji Sherpa


N.D. Shrestha, MFA - 10 May 73

Annapurna I expedition established C3 at 6500m on 26 April
Expedition changed route: from NE Buttress to north side.


Tsukamoto & Matsnage - 4 March 73

Total 11 members; 9 members arrive today.

Leave 8 March by plane to Pokhara; caravan beginning probably 13th and 15th days to base camp.

British army route via NE Buttress, which they retreated from Japanese making new route at end upper Glacier 7100m.

6 high camps; C6 7500m about 15 May, summit 20 May.

10 Sherpas including sirdar Sonam, 2 Kitchen boys and 2 mailrunners
route very difficult but possible.


Tadashi Hsigata - 27 Feb 73

2 members now here; rest 9 more arrive 4 March. Leave by truck on 8th March to Pokhara. Caravan leaves 12th or 13th and reaches base camp after about 15 days.
Will climb north side, British army route.

10 Sherpas including sirdar which British abandoned; 6 higher camps with C6 at 7600m; summit 10th May about, 2 summit parties planned.


Kaneko - 5 & 7 March 72

Went Annapurna I next year spring, now recce by 4 members. Route next year not yet decided but interested in north side. Will trek to Tilitso Lake and return via Kali Gandaki.

Go to Pokhara about 17 March.

MFA consider this only trekking and no LO assigned to them.