원정 개요

Ichikawa & Hirota - 4 June 73

All members to Kathmandu today. 5 members reached highest point 6150m on 1 May. Bad weather: snow and everyday afternoon bad weather; only 6 hrs climbing time each day.

Their ridge route very long. 30 days to reach C4 with time-consuming route-finding. 20 more days to reach summit and much hard work. They attacked West Ridge, very unknown ridge. We didn't know surface. Turned out to be rock and ice and very steep slope and everyday icefalls and rock fall; sometimes climb only 100m in one day.

It's possible reach summit this route. Would like to try again and might be successful.

Time: both Hirota and he want to try again after 2-3 yrs. All members and Sherpas unscathed, no yeti.


Ichikawa, Moroi & Hirota - 23 Feb 73

All members arrive today. Probably same route on Api as 1971 Japanese, S Face, maybe W Ridge. Flight to Damgori early March - Baitadi leaving Dagari 4 or 5 March and reached base end March.

57 days from base to summit. 10 May we hope summit.

1971 no good weather; late reaching base and lots of rain. "I hope this year good weather" says leader, maybe now stronger team.

4 Sherpas & cook, kitchen boy & 2 mailrunners.

Hope all members to summit.