원정 개요

Nakamura - 11 May 73

Arrived KTM yesterday by plane, rest on 12th and 13th.
Correct Shigero and Shimasaka summited on 1st May

From C3 summit was very far. 2 summiters stayed in bivouac at 7090m on 30th April and 1 May. Reached summit at 7:30 am and stayed 1 hour on top. Started snowing soon after and because very bad so had to biv again that night. Reached C3 at 4:45 pm 2nd May.

Fixed rope also above C3; 1300m fixed rope altogether from just below C2. Up to C2 was ice, above C2 rock.

Route was South Ridge; this expedition 1st to succeed by South Ridge.

Had planned all to go to summit but since route from C3 so very long, only 1 summit attempt. No C4: not enough time, no place to put tent.

No yeti, no climbing Sherpas. No accident, illness, frostbite.


Pumori

Success 1st May, 07:33 hours inspite of bad weather.

2 members - Tatsuji Shigeno
Nobuo Shimasaka

South Ridge route.


Kimura - 5 March 73

Not trekking to Khumbu; fly to Lukla after perhaps 2 or 3 days. Stay at Thyangboche 1 week for practice climbing.


Kimura - 3 March 73

South Ridge, same route as British; very difficult so 1 Sherpa.
Leave KTM 8 March. On foot from Lamosangu.
BC Gorak Shep about 1 April.


Yamamoto - 26 Feb 73

3 members here; all others on 1 March.
Leave 5 March on foot from Lamosangu, reach base camp about 2 April, return KTM late Jane. Summit 10 May.

Route = South Ridge: this new route: 1 team tried but no success (tried by Indians 1953). Very steep knife ridge. BC on southwest glacier at 5200m. Ridge begins on their route at 6400m. C2 below at 6200m and C3 6500m, C4 highest at 6800m, summit 7145m.

Hope all members except chief leader to summit.