원정 개요

Hiroshima - 20 May 73

Arrive today Mitsuo Hiroshima, Tsuneatsu Tsuchiya and Shigeru Tanaka if weather good, otherwise tomorrow.

C1 5800m - 4 April route to C2 very long rock ridge so advance camp at 6000m (established 10 April).

C2 6350m - 13 April route to C3 snow face with some very deep crevasses.

C3 6850m - 2 May-29 April already decided site for C3.

8 May Hiroshima, Toyotaro Ohmasu and Masutomo Takita arrived at 7300m and wanted to establish C4 there, but but many snow avalanches from South Face. Every morning clear, every afternoon snow, so abandoned making C4; this highest point reached.

9 May decided must turn back to avoid accident. 1300m to summit all rock face. Possible to climb if good weather and no avalanching.

If possible I want to go another mountain.

Had wanted to go to South Face directly at east end to summit, but too many avalanches at east end. At base camp 3 days, decided changed and actually approached from west. C4 site below West or East Ridge at west end; ridge very long, almost impossible route.

7 climbing members, above 6000m only 3. Others not in good, strong health, so Hiroshima had to make route all the time. Too weak an expedition for such a high peak.

No accident no serious illness, no frostbite, no yeti.


Uchida & Hiroshima - 20 Feb 73

Arrive Thyangboche 6 March; arrive basecamp 20 March.

Leave KTM 22 Feb, drive to Lamosangu and trek except Hiroshima flies to Lukla on 28 with all equipment.


Uchida & Hiroshima - 12 Feb 73

Arrive KTM 11 Feb 9 members.
South Wall, up Lhotse Glaciers, very steep. Below 6000m snow, upper rock. 5000m fixed rope.

Equipment to Lukla by air. Members to walk in to Lukla, Namche 1 week rest, acclimatization, BC on Lhotse Glacier at 5300m.

This the first try via this route.

6 camps; each 500m above other. This time hope to reach 7500-8000m as high altitude recon. Some spare pavers, want to go to top.

Arrive base end of March; leave base end of May; 2 months of climbing.

Leave KTM about 22nd Feb
5 high altitude Sherpas
3 tons baggage