원정 개요

Hillary - 16 May 73

Not only quantity but much of it good quality heavy duty equipment, not light weight expedition type. Nobody else could afford to bring the weight to base camp and advance base light weight stretches and kerosene heaters and lights at advance base camp communications - complete any set - 3-way support helicopter with Colonel in charge.

Camping and education consultant Seans
Dir of hold Bks in Australia

substanial supplies in cook tent
spagetti bolognese
coke
bean
peaches
operated like military operation
any personal
any equipment
any communications


Ed Hillary - 11 May 73

What Monzino has shown: if you have a couple of platoons of Alpine troops and a couple of helicopters and equipment and funds, that the climbing of Everest by South Col routes is a reliable straightforward procedure.

We shouldn't regard this as a mountain expedition; taking a group of service people and getting then to work together on a difficult and challenging objective; more of a together programme. As a mountaineer I think he would have been much better carrying it on European Alps, but he has been very competent. I hope in future that Everest will be left mountaineering parties composed of small groups enthusiast climbers. It's reached the height of ridiculous.

8 teams off
8 3-man assault teams
(2 Italians)
summit teams were to be flown down to Lukla for rest and recuperation and then flown back to BC.

Helicopters key to plan


Al Read - 8 May 73

28 April - 2 Chileans from base camp by helicopter enroute to Lukla; met at Pheriche.

Al said: 11 members including 2 Chileans had gone to C4 and same of these had eye trouble and frostbite - so all went down to base camp except 2 Chileans who spent 3 days at C4 and were well acclimatized ready and willing to go on up to summit on 29th, but expedition refused to give them Sherpas and told them they could not go to summit, presumably because they not Italians. They were leaving expedition (not clear whether asked to leave or quit). They thought it would make Monzino look bad in Chile since he had gone there to recruit them. They would never climb for another Italian expedition because not in best alpine style: helicopters had stocked C2 with men, supplies fuel which they understand was contrary to HMG permission.

Italian embassy told Read on 8 May 2 Chileans at Lukla or base camp, had not come to KTM.


ND Shrestha - 7 May 73

2nd group today summits at 13:00
3 Italians, 1 Sherpa

Capt. Fabrizio Innamorati
Virginio Epis
Claudio Benedetti
Sonam Gyalzen

If weather remains clear will try again up to 14th.


ND Shrestha - 5 May 73

2 Italians on Everest succeeded 5 May, 12:39 hours

Minuzzo
Rinaldo
Sirdar Lhakpa Tenzing
(Sherpa) Shambu Tamang

and returned to C4 which established yesterday 2 pm 28,000 ft.
Next group will try day after tomorrow.


Gallesi - 25 April 73

Weather bad for past 3 days, preventing radio communication between base camp and higher camps, so no informations, yet about C4.


Lord Hunt - 16 April 73

2 Hunts, Wylie and Gurgary to Lukla 17th.

Great disservice to other mountaineers in other countries to use techniques against Ministers of Nepal Govt; inevitability of progress: airlifting in context of mountain is in scope of things to come; used in Alaska and in Pamirs. I don't ethically like it, but respect Nepal govt's attitude on employment.

One has feelings but uses of technique to overcome human problems advantages of doing it slowly from point of view of acclimatization; in Pamirs we went into much too quickly.

A mountain expedition is all of a piece approach march, acclimatization shake down between Europeans and Sherpas; miss tremendously lot esthetically not walking in.


Landucci - 19 April 73

eye trouble and one frostbite
24 Verbi - eye
03 Miniuzzo - feet frostbite
16 Tancan - eye

In C2 and had to be rescued in afternoon 17:40 hours; weather very strong winds; chopper did not crash; tried to land before all lost; 200m before C2; skidding on ice and hit crevasse at low speed and helicopter damaged and impossible to bring down but rest can be brought.

Cristallo not fractured but dislocation of left arm; in KTM but not in hospital.

3 injured stayed in C2 and cared for by Dr in camp.


ND Shrestha - 18 April 73

Crashed at C2; went to rescue 3 persons suffering from diarrhea. Yesterday at 17:45 tried to land but because of wind crashed. Engineer injured Cristallo Mauro, right fracture. Padro Landuci and Peca Raro Pilots Luigi safe and sound. 3 sick and 1 injured carried to basecamp and other helicopter brought to KTM.


Everest

Lindsay Strong reports airdropping pay loads of 150 kg to C2.


ND Shrestha - 8 April 73

"Permit strictly for rescue operation, if airdropping, it is violation of permit. Must explain what they are doing."


PB Khetri - 5 April 73

Approach route had no facility and no reach in time: time lag.


Dr. Curzan - 4 April 73

Saw Everest airdropping on 1 April in Western Cwm; was at Kalapattar, regular flights.


Gallesi - 6 March 73

Heavy snowfall this morning at Thyangboche and Lukla; same of expedition have moved off towards base camp probably yesterday.


Capt. Gallesi - 4 March 73

Snowing at Thyangboche at 5 pm today where expedition should leave tomorrow but difficult for yaks to move; depends on how deep this evening snowfall becomes; reached Thyangboche about 8 days ago, about 50 Italians at Thyangboche.


Monzino - 11 Feb 73

Why South Col route? "because it is easier." Only 5 expeditions have reached summit by it.

Don't know now how many men will try to reach summit or how many summit teams or where or how many camps.

Cost and financial informations not allowed to give.

1st time any member climbed in Himalayas before. "Sure its a handicap," but have Alpine experience.


Monzino - 3 Feb 73

Last 3 flights arrive 4th or 5th Feb and expedition leave KTM about 15th Feb.

All climbers to fly to Lukla about 15 Feb - acclimatization climbing - established base in 1st or 2nd week March.

South Col route only - one summit attempt only - how many men and when depends on weather health of 33 climbers (33 if everybody arrive).

33 climbers
6 scientists
11 helicopter people
5-6 radio operators
2 doctors
10 leader, 3 deputy leaders
6 directors
2 photographers
2 information assistants

Climbing leader - Piero Navas is 1 of deputy leader


Guido Monzino - 15 Nov 69

Hopes to bring expedition in 1973 with 25 members; classical South Col route.

Went to Kalapattar for good view and went on trek to see country and people and to meet HMG and Himal Society for expedition.

Bech and Carrel also to be members.