원정 개요

Del Young (Anderson & Bech also) - 2 June 73

Peter Lev and Ron came down on 18th to C3 after waiting out 17th which was not too bad. On 18th several more feet of snow. Ron and Peter were considering summit for 18th, but gave it up late that am. Yang came down to open route ahead of them; left C3 at nooon; extremely dangerous avalanche conditions between C4 and C3 and Ron got only to C3 that day while Yang to C1 just before dark; snow waist deep, snow sometimes shoulder deep and swinging motions, took 6-7 hours. Peter and Ron started avalanches that went all the way (10,000 ft), very serious conditions.

Lowell waited for Ron and Peter in support of them. Then took all of tents to come down to C3 which in normal conditions would have taken 1 hour to come down that 1000 ft; after that a matter of cleaning the mountain. When decided to go down on 18th was the decision to abandon the mountain and was clear they had waited too long. All cleared off mountain 22nd May.

No accidents, no other damage besides Roskelley's frostbite.

Bech, Anderson, Young, Reichardt, Lyman and Peterson now in KTM (and Skow); rest by 4th June. Most leave together on 12th to NYC.


RSS - 27 May 73

2nd summit attempt on Dhaulagiri I abandoned; expedition returned to base camp 25 May; leave Tukuche 26 May.

Tom Lyman and Skow have come back to KTM; left expedition with Roskelley and Duenwald.


Roskelley & Duenwald - 19 May 73

SE Ridge camps would have been almost impossible to place, such a knife-edge: 13,000 ft down 1 side, 2000 ft down the other.

19 pitches to the ridge and almost vertical part; just getting to ridge was fine piece of climbing, says Duenwald. Took 10 days to get onto SE Ridge. Ice climbing on this face as hard as anything done in the Himalayas says Roskelley, but it ended up in dead end. Doubtful 2 climbers supported by entire expedition could have gotten up SE Ridge: too difficult to supply camps and too much objective danger from rock fall from supplies.

Del Young took lead out 12 April 40-50 ft but just didn't get far fast. Between 29 April to 11 May there was 1/2 a climbing day; even summit days was very high winds up to 80 mph gusts: when just came along, couldn't see any of us. Deep snow, day before had heavy snow but so tired of sitting in camp (C4) that went up to summit. Just unbelievable winds; had set in C4 all day of 11th.

On 7th in C3 Roskelley blown over by winds when went out to get some snow and his tent poles all broke by wind and tent collapsed.

C4 established by Roskelley and Nawang Samden. 10th excellent weather; we stayed in the tent on the 11th. C5 exposed. Reichardt left C3 late and joined Roskelley with 2 Sherpas later on 10th (2 Sherpas went down tired).

Roskelley froze his feet on 11th and 12th; feet already frozen when set out for summit: had very bitter feeling in them: had spent night before beating them and holding them over fire: "I knew something was wrong with them." Left C4 at 7:30 am and reached summit 1:00 pm, back at camp at 5:00 pm. Lou took some pix and froze couple of fingers (just blistered). Realized feet in trouble when reached base camp on 13th and Drs took his boots off. Roskelley descended alone while Reichardt stopped at C2 for night of 13th. Roskelley carried from base on 15th to Tukuche in 3 days; horse to Jomsom 19th, given seats on police standard flight by Kalayan.


Vikram Adhikari
Today (2 aides off-loaded by Adhikari)

Duenwald incredibly sparsely evacuation of Roskelley.

2nd Summit team:
Lev and Fear in C4
Smith and Young in C3

Yesterday am: were going to decide 10 am whether to give up: was snowing at 7 am at time if Duenwald's radio contact at 7 am and Duenwald thinks they came down then for good - weather deteriorating recently and crevasses opening up.

(American ascent withing 1 day and 1/2 hour of first ascent).

Roskelley and Duenwald lost 20 lbs in weight.

Roskelley very disappointed when had to abandon SE Ridge. "Challenge gone repeating others successful route; what we came down for was to do something new and difficult but 27,000 ft is challenge enough and there was difficulties. The wind and weather there, damn lucky to get 3 people on top."

Will lose parts of a couple of toes and be able climb again in couple of months, but can't walk. Going home fast as possible.

14-16 days for rest of expedition to get back to KTM.

No other accidents, illnesses, frostbites.


ND Shrestha - 16 May 73

Success 12 May 1 pm
Lou Reichardt
John Roskelley
Deputy Sirdar Nawang Samden

NE Ridge: 2nd group trying to reach top from C3.


ND Shrestha (MFA) - 10 May 73

After reaching 25,000 ft from SE Ridge, abandoned that route and tried from NE Ridge because knife-edged and often double corniced for over, mile towards summit, chances of success by that route very slim.

Decided to climb NE Ridge and to attempt to get as many members as possible to top.

From Lowell Smith to US Embassy to MFA: no date given for Smith's report.


Kathy Peterson - 24 April 73

Decided on 14 April that the SE Ridge would be intolerable and after 2 weeks of trying just to get up on the ridge, gave it up. Now everybody is focusing on standard NE Ridge and I believe working on C3 as from 20 April.

Sonam Girme has really worked out well and thus far don't seem to be any problems with logistics, health or Sherpas. Apparently the weather and wind are fairly severe.


Jim Morrissey to Al Read - 10 April 73

"Bad weather past week but today is beautiful and with luck we will reach the ridge at 21,000 ft."

Lowell Smith 559 ice - 11 loads to get halfway up face 6-10 April.


Emil Wick (of Geneva) - 5 April 73

"Everything up, everybody in good health. I'm most satisfied."
Last days 04:55-06:35
Today GMT
and then Skow and he flew over top of Dhaulagiri I 29000 ft

All members on NE Col, 19200 ft

Dropped altogether:
1st April 3 4th - 2 (total 8 tons)
2nd April 4 5th - 3
3rd April 4

Expedition reached base camp on Col site on 3rd April
"that was best job I ever had" - this aircraft has 700 hp while '60 340 hp"

Same members cross glacier and start to attack mountain: very steep upwards little icefall yesterday.

Radio contact


John Skow - 26 March 73

24-26th March: 7 droppings, 3500 kg at French Pass compacted snow same boxes opened but all picked food and same equipment: tents, ropes, kerosene.

John Skow in charge of drop operation and pushed stuff out trap door.

About 20 ft above ground when pushed out.

Again 1st April in NE Col about 10 tons, about 10 days.


Peterson's wife - 10 March 73

Expedition left Pokhara Thursday 8 May for base camp (she saw them off at Pokhara); slu staying with Terry Bech's successor until she leaves in May to join them).


Morrissey - 3 March 73

Truck left this am with 6 Sherpas
8 Americans

6 Americans left in KTM including Terry who leaves March 5 while other 5 including Morrissey leave tomorrow.


Terry Bech - 4 Dec 72

Arrive 15 Feb
16-18 members
30 tons baggage = 9 truck loads
Helicoptering Larjum to NE Col at 19,200 ft
250 miles to Larjum

1/2 expenses of Sherpas and without loss of life under ice cliffs for several hours and save time.


PBK - 20 Jan 73

To climb Dhaulagiri by route refering helicopter deprives Sherpas of status and utility - if not safe otherwise, don't climb by this routes climb some other route.


Captain Chester - 23 Aug 72

Helicopter Services will lift Dhaulagiri expeditions's base camp from Jomsom to 19,000 ft - booked by Terry Bech.