원정 개요

Franz Huber - 6 March 73

7 arrive; all excluding Weissensteiner.

Some more difficult this route than 1969 probably. North route also long; what part of north route most difficult to say since haven't seen it: Dhaulagiri III in the way.

Leave KTM after few days.


Weissensteiner - 28 Feb 73

Leader and Dr. to KTM on Tuesday next week and with reporter to Pokhara about 8th.

Adi to NDH tomorrow and by truck to Pokhara with cargo about 7 or 8 March; 6 members by truck also.

Leave Pokhara about 10 March. Reach base camp in at least 21 days, probably 28 days.

5 high camps with C5 at about 7200 or 7300m.

Much rock up to C1; snow fields to C2 and from there serious traverse below icefall; then ice to east ridge at about 7200-7300m where C5 will be. Ridge half rock, half ice.


Adi Weissensteiner - 2 June 73

C5 in Col; ridge beyond not easy: partly steep, partly at last knife-like, partly distance.

Waited 2 days in C5 for good weather but didn't come.

This possible to climb this 2nd route, but it takes time and if we would come again, we would come this same way. Would more try from so but it has to be a damn strong team. Thinking of requesting D-IV again.

No accidents, illness, frostbite, yeti.

Thought about 3rd attempt, but who was strong enough after 5 weeks at high-altitude. Only 2 or 3 possibles and distance too much from C2 to C5 to summit with difficult climbing at end and never stopped.

Adi Weissensteiner arrived yesterday, rest today.