원정 개요

Dr. Wolf & Galfy - 31 May 73

21 May summit group (5 Czechs and 2 Sherpas) started from C5 (7850m) to reach place of C6 (maybe 8200m) and next day to reach summit. Jan Kounicky (34 years) about 8010m 10:00 am slipped on very steep snow slope (terrain not difficult); fell 80-100m down and heavily injured, unable to walk. Summit group stopped ascent, called BC by radio. Injured now brought to C5 and members treated him according to instructions from BC. In some hours he was better and for 6-7 days members and Sherpas (especially members) tried to bring him down but very difficult steep rocks and snow it was not possible to carry him down to BC on fixed ropes and also because lack of oxygen at that altitude and injured man used all supply in C4. Josef Psotka (39) spent 9 days and 8 nights without oxygen with injured man in C5 and he had to be ordered to come down. Another man up with oxygen and food and fuel, after 2 days going up mentally exhausted and had to come down. 26 May he died: Mike Orolin was with him and then new parties went up but knew impossible to bring body down; body [put] in sleeping bag in crevasse with Czech flag over him.

Summit team:
1) Jan Kounicky (dead)
2) Josef Pstoka
3) Leopold Palenicek
4) Jan Cervinka
5) Ivan Fiala

Leader carried 2 days before BC with pneumonia.

2 groups of expedition
1) Tomorrow in Tumlingtar
2) others with leader

Route is ready, possible to climb. This way Czech route SW Pillar between Yugoslavia and Japanese route.

Team used Sherpas above BC for setting high camps.