원정 개요

Dr. Schmatz - 9 May 73

151 Blue Star, this evening

NE wall climbed by Germans

Icefall very dangerous towards end of expedition because of many ice avalanches.

Left of North Col. Were very late on summit day. Weather so bad couldn't leave in till 9 am. On summit 15:00 hours and again back at 17:45 hours. Saw red paint at about 7500m on summit platform and think was one of dead Austrians (tent would have blown away but probably red anorak or red pullover on body). I am sorry I didn't go there but in evening too tired and in following morning we had to go down. I had frozen my feet and cheek and ear and Sigi froze his feet and fingers - frostbite getting well.

Mrs Schmatz at C2 at Naike Col and climbed a peak over 600m east of Naike Col; had intended climb North Peak but shortage of supplies. Kaempfe and Woergoetter with her on 21 April; probably climbed by Japanese, not so difficult.

Met Japanese women for 1974 (East Ridge their route).

Arnold had lung embolism from and probably perhaps also altitude at 5600m. Was very weak and had to be helped down from C2 to C2 and to base; later he went above C4 and had relapse with lungs again on 13 April.

Sherpas caught in avalanche but no one injured.
All but Sturm returned to KTM yesterday evening.


Sturm - 25 April 73

Left expedition 19 April; has to return to work.

Too much snow and more important too much wind. 2nd attempt to be made beginning on 19th by Schmatz, Hupfauer and some Sherpas including sirdar Urkien. The mountain is not difficult but weather bad, snowing every day. British possible they reach the summit if 3-4 days fine weather.


Mountain Magazine July-August 1978 on Manaslu by Norman Dhyrenfurth:

Pinned down by frequent snowstorms, men had to wait until April 22 before summit ascent could be started from C5, 24,700 ft. Gerhard Schmatz, Hupfauer and Urkien did not leave until 9:am, rather late for the test ahead. Soon it was discovered that of the three oxygen sets only 1 Urkein's functioned properly - the valves of others froze up time and again. Painfully short of breath, the two Germans rid themselves of their faulty sets and their rucksack and continued the climb; towards 2 pm the base of rocky summit pyramid was reached. The weather was so bad by then that Urkien was ready to turn back, but in the end he relented and stuck it out. "Another hour went by before we reached the top we are standing on the highest summit ever attempted by German we take few photographs, pick up some rock samples and depart from this inhospitable spot."