원정 개요

Devouassaux - 10 Nov 70

Climbed the face. Masino and Payot only reached final ridge at 7000m. C4 6850m was highest camp.

Masino 15 days sick in base with bronchial pneumonia.

Face more difficult the expected. Had to climb on face, not on ridge and face very dangerous because many stone and ice avalanches.

Strong winds defeated Masino and Payot's summit attempt on 27th afternoon. 1st team reached summit.

Summit 6:00 am on 27th having left C4, 5 am 26th Oct. Spent 26th night at 7000m without tent, sleeping bags, no food in dark; made hole in snow.

BC 4200m
C1 5200m
C2 5600m
C3 6000m
C4 6850m

[Note: camp and bivouac elevations differ from published HJ article]

Top of face very difficult: very steep loose snow. Had expected to reach summit and return on 26th; returned C4 3 pm on 27th.

Leave KTM after 4-5 days and tour in India 10 days on the way to France.


French Expedition - 19 Sept

Arrive KTM 13th Sept. Go Pokhara, Ghandrung, Kyumni, north from Kyumni to approach mountain from south. Expect 2-3 camps above base. 2000m face of rock, snow and ice to PKR 20th. Leave PKR 21st for 6 days to base. 6 Sherpas, sirdar Pemba Tenzing.

No idea how long to sumit (prospectus says towards end Oct).

Annapurna South (7195m)
= Moditse, Modi Peak, Ganesh

First climbed by Japanese from Kyoto University in 1964 from northern side; only previous attempt on mountain.

French 1970 expedition attempting new route: direct route up South Face.