원정 개요

Rivas - 20 Oct 73

1st helicopter flight ex-Samagaon, 11,500 ft

3 avalanches hit C2 between 10-13 Oct. Stayed 14 days in C2 and in this 6m of snow fell.

Avalanches destroyed first C2 and on last day 2nd C2 30m higher and stayed 3 days more in C2. 1st C2 destroyed while members out of camp in biv after 29 Sept 14 days new snow non-stop

13 Oct the 6 members fell but no serious injury. Had decided to descend and while starting avalanche came (every 10 mins) and swept all men down several meters some (Sherpas) (100m).

Reached base safely and waited for good weather.

15 Oct went up to bring down gear. 13 Oct decided not possible; too much new snow, technical problems, avalanche all time down very dangerous to keep trying.

Wish to return Spring 1975 by same route. From technical point of view very interesting. Left equipment at C1 also destroyed by avalanche probably same day, 13th; no one there at time.

All members Ok.

Post-monsoon very improbable to reach 8000m. If had not left mountain "we would have died." C2 all destroyed when went up to bring it down.


Letter from Expedition - 18 Oct 73

Weather was always very bad, snowing without stop. We were obliged to go down from C2 and C1 to the BC. Fortunately because big avalanches have partially destroyed C2 and covered C1. Everybody members and Sherpas are ok.

From today until 18 Oct we shall tried to go up, if weather is good or to go down to Samagaon if the weather conditions do not permit this possibility.


Letter from Expedition

We arrive to BC on 20 Sep 4300m

22 Sep - have the way, and back (BC Camp, C1)
Arrazola, Marquez, Mendoz, Diez
Establishment C1 (5100m) - Soria, Rivas, Blazquez + 5 Sherpas
23 Sep - C2 establishment - Soria, Rivas, Blazguez & 5 Sherpas
24 Sep - a provision C2 - Durand, Repiso
29 Sep - a provision C2 - Arrazola, Diez, Mendoz, Blazguez
30 Sep - a provision C2 - Arrazola, Arias, Garcia Orts
30 Sep - Make way to C3 (until 6050m) - Rivas, Soria, Lopez, Rodrigo, Durand

Stay in C1 till 4 October: Garcia Orts, Arrazola, Leader
This people go down to BC 4 October because of danger of avalanches.

Stay in C2 till 9 October - Soria, Repiso, Durand, Rivas, Lopez, Blazguez and 6 Sherpas.

On 9 October big avalanche over C2; all members and Sherpas of C2 go down to BC.

10 October everybody on BC.

It has snowed until today, from 29 Sept without stop; avalanches everywhere; very bad conditions of the mountain.


Letter from Expedition - 4 Oct 1973

In the last 8 days we have to push to C1 and near totally C2 (5600m). Tomorrow we shall tried to begun to shift C3 at 6300m.

Last 3 days was snowing a lot and was lot possible to do any work. Many avalanches even between C1 and BC but today weather is better.


Letter from M. Arrazola - 28 Sept 1973

After 13 days crossing the valleys of the Buri Gandaki. We have arrived the BC. He had no problems and all people of the expedition, Sherpas and porters okay.

We go to put C1 at 4900m and probably 2 days after C2 at 5600m.

Weather until now is not so bad. From the BC we see the top of the Manaslu.


Mrs Arrazola - 7 Sept 73

Left 9:30 am today except leader and doctor who left 4:30 pm for Trisuli where they leave tomorrow am.


Dr. Arrozola - 2 Sept 73

6th Thurs leave KTM by road to Trisuli; leave Trisuli 7th & 12-13 days to BC.
5 high camps; summit 15-20 Oct.