원정 개요

Tony Johnson - 6 Dec 73

"Its a big mountain; it turned aut to be 12 miles from base camp to over top camp." 5-6 mile glacier north of 20,000 ft peak.

From C1 to C4 a long rocky ridge and up there found lots of Japanese and Austrian gear and tent wreckage and ladders.

Col is really wind swept, rather exposed; found Japanese tent wreckage and saw same slightly above col with fixed rope.

Could have happened to Austrians: reason we came down, such long way that if weather turned bad, would be in very serious trouble; could get cut off completely; would need at least a week of completely clear weather.

Alan slipped while they were cramponing down unroped; dead when Tony reached him 1/2 hour later and hadn't moved since stopped falling.

Pure logistics = the problem of south route.

Brook leave 8th RNAC
Arrive LDN Air India
Arrive 11:00 am 9th

Johnson and 3
Leave 10 RNAC, arrive LDN Air India 103
11 am 10th March


Ian Rowe - 30 Nov 73

Ian and Tabbner arrive today and go to UK soon possible; rest of expedition Johnson arrive KTM about 9th.

From C6 summit bid made by Brook and arrived 17th (day after we established C7) which failed; took biv equipment and were going to snowhole. Failed because route too hard, was too far and we were too far extended.

Failing that, we decided to make 2nd attempt and established temporary C7 on 18th by Tony and Dewison. On 19th Tony and Dewison climbing up to West Col which they gained and put a tent on col.

Scott, Brook, Fyffe and Rowe are in support from C7 to try and place Tony, Dewison, Scott and Rowe on the col so Scott and Rowe could make summit bid from col (where Austrians were going to make their bid from).

Tony and Alan made it to col and put tent in. 4 of us are on glacier below and we noticed bad weather coming midday or early and afternoon decided to retreat; decision radioed to pair above and they agreed to come to C7 that evening; virtual decision to abandon whole thing because

a) looked like bad weather and
b) our food running out.

At that point we could do another attempt; in descending unroped facing in, Alan fell 2000 ft. Tony found him and buried him on glacier near where came to rest; no 3rd person with them. Tony reached C7 that night before dark joining 4 there.

So we were in full retreat after that; evacuation took place until 24th.

Rowe and Tabbner left base 24th am.

Porter killed: Kancha Sherpa who was supplying food to people in C1: Brook, Fyffe and Sherpas above; avalanche struck while going up; he didn't deliver his load.

All British at BC found body but rescue efforts unavailing; carried body down in dark.

Between C3 and C4 climbed up and over summit and 20,000 ft down again; possible to climb the route but line is so long its very difficult."

We did virtually all our carrying" (so more active Sherpas would have helped).

"Not much fun, we just had too much to do; times are longer than Everest, much longer than expected."

Scott when got to Pt 20,000 ft, said it's 5 minutes footprints was clear.

All members Ok (except Dewison).

Debris at col seen at distance by Tony which showed Austrians had put final camp, but no clues what happened to Austrians.

Strength across to D-IV; we all said couldn't be and we'd never get there if it was.

Tony Johnson had 2 tents.

Brook and 2 Sherpas saw yeti, between BC and C1 about 7 Nov avalanche coming down snow slope towards party; then ran away. Sherpas shouted yeti and Brook saw an animal which Scott thinks from.


M Khanal, MFA - 29 Nov 73

Ang Pasang (Raj Pradhan).

High-altitude coolie killed by avalanche while coming from C1 to BC at altitude 1000 ft above base camp.

23 Nov - 2 porters coming from C1
Cremated near BC

Leader and 2 members left BC and main party 22 Nov.


M Khanal, MFA - 28 Nov 73

15,000 ft way, fell 1500 hundred feet down is correct.


MP Khanal, MFA - 28 Nov 73

18 Nov C8 20,500 ft

19 Nov. Johnson, Dewison and Sherpa went up to C9, but couldn't make C9 and while coming down to C7 Dewison slipped down to 15,000 ft and died about 4 pm.

Abandoned climbing 20 Nov.

C4 19,000
C5 17,500
C6 18,500
C7 19,500

Austrians - 1969 - Dhaulagiri IV

BC - 1 Oct 3050m
depot - 6 Oct 4270m
C1 - 6 Oct 4950m
C2 - 12 Oct 5750m

Summit of rock barrier 20 Oct - 6275m


Capt. Dowdall - 15 Oct 73

Baggage arrive Pokhara 2 am yesterday - via bus north of landslide
5 flights yesterday and 1 this am from Pokhara to base:
4900 lbs and 5 members and 1 LO and 4 Sherpas
Perfect weather at BC - show down to 13,000 ft
Base just about 12,000 ft

C2 established by yesterday afternoon by Brook very fit and Scott and 3 Sherpas 17,500 ft.

McHardy via helicopter to KTM and on NDH RNAC today; Air India NDH/LDN tonight - ill; looks ill but can walk; arrived Pokhara yesterday afternoon with Ian Rowe who leaves Sunday by helicopter with extra gear and food.

Home had good look at mountain from air and not so difficult.

Are out on ridge. 4 more camps needed to give sufficient back up.

32 days up to summit and down to base from yesterday.

All quite confident.


Johnson - 2 Oct 73

Cargo truck leaving Bombay tonight; at border Sun 7th helicopter shuttles 9th or 10th.
Johnson to Pokhara tomorrow, Tabbner from Bhairawa on Sun or Monday.


Tony Johnson - 1 Oct 73

Letter from advanced party:

23 Sept reached Muri village; had had porters trouble; at base camp latest 27th; had to change porters at Beni and Muri.

Johnson returned to KTM from Pokhara today


Tony Johnson - 25 Sept 73

Adv party arrive base about tomorrow and hope they'll surmount rock walls by time.

"I am not worried about the cold, I'd just like to see the mountain once."

Cargo off ship today or tomorrow. 1 day for Customs, so assured to leave Bombay Fri get to Bhairawa Monday 1st Oct.

Helicopter will be in Pokhara on 6th so expedition will use it for 5 shuttles.

On 7th to base (45 minutes round trip) and maybe 1 over rock walls; acclimatization carrying loads up from base.

Had figured main party on base 14th or possibly 12th leaving Bombay yesterday.

Johnson to Pokhara tomorrow afternoon and probably back Sunday.


Johnson - 15 Sept 73

17 porters with equipment left this am with Rowe, Brook, McHardy and Scott and 1 Sherpa and 1 cook boy - have maybe equipment for work on lower rock band, 1st obstacle which Austrians had such trouble with. Will establish base camp in 12 days and start on route into upper basin on rock ridge; have all hardware, 4000 ft rope and 600 ft of climbing rope and 1 HA tent and 3 LA tents and 200 wire loads in sections and saw HA returns.

lower basin 12,000 ft
upper basin 18,000 ft

At top of ridge although may have to go above 18,000 ft.
Some equipment probably from Kathmandu.
Ship almost HA food, stoves, 8 tents, pack frames and 4000 ft rope.
Air freighted out equipment in case recce needed.
2 in Pokhara: Awbery (Dr) and Tabbner.
Ship "Indian Tribune" was due in Bombay 9 Aug.


Johnson - 12 Sept 73

2 Sherpas
3 members
15-20 porters with what gear came by air from Pokhara to base camp and start fix-roping.

Rock ridge; have enough equipment for 1 month.

Awbery, Tabbner and Scott stay at Pokhara till cargo at Bhairawa date known.

Fyffe and Dewison are in Bombay trying to get sea freight unloaded and on its way to Nepal (at Bentley Hotel, Room 6, tel 291244).


Johnson - 9 Sept 73

Sirdar and 3 HA Sherpas cook and kitchen boy and runners
5 camps above base camp in Kanoban Khola

Ian Rowe - 8 Sept 73

Rowe and Co, leave tomorrow for Pokhara.


Johnson - 7 Sept 73

Dewison and Fyffe are with lorry of baggage ex-Bombay arriving border 17 Sept.

2 Land Rovers of member to Pokhara tomorrow; Johnson, Tabbner, Awbery and Scott stay in KTM and Tabbner to Bhairawa to meet lorry.

3 to Pokhara might go ahead from Pokhara to recce.

Pretty much decided to attack from South via 1969 Austrians route.


Tabbner - 4 Sept 73

3 here, others arrive Tomorrow and Thursday (Johnson on Thursday); baggage to Bombay tomorrow.

Hope to set off from Pokhara by 23rd.

9 total members including Dr. 3 with Kulu experience; from all over UK; recce party to look at south; interested in south approach and east side of Dhaulagiri VI up Kanoban Khola - they to decide whether south or go round to the north; recce party probably Rowe, Brook and McHardy.


JOMR - 4 Sept 73

Ken Wilson says some of best young British climbers, very strong team

* Fyffe
* Rowe
Dewison
Brook
* McHardy

All done very difficult climb *= esp strong
Brook, Tabbner and Johnson went to Kulu and Rowe to Hindu Kush several times.
New generation of British climbers.