원정 개요

Terajima - 30 Oct 73

Sakai, Terajima and Okura arrive today from Ghunsa village.

C4 on 1 Oct at 6550m; just after that, heavy snowfall 2-1/2 days (60 hrs) and C4 very dangerous: many avalanches and 2m deep snow.

So climbing leader Yamanoi, Terajima, Iwanaga and 4 Sherpas were at C4 but after 2 days snow at 3 Oct felt very dangerous, so sahibs called them down so went to C2 in blizzard (took 10 hours to C2 5450m).

In C3 5 members and 4 Sherpas. Also very dangerous and one time avalanche came and snow tower split avalanche from little C3. C3 more dangerous then C4 so also came down to C2 on 3 Oct.

5 Oct all down to BC and after 3 days rest started. Climbing up again by all except leader to C2 by 9 Oct.

Next day 2 members reached C3 and found all tents buried in snow and returned to C2.

Then carried some baggage to C3 to rest but snow started again 10th Oct. Stayed 2 days in C2, but heavier snow than before and it's safety also gone. Very many avalanches, some very big. Also snow powder covered C2's 6 tents, so felt this dangerous place.

12th Oct snow still falling and went down to BC again started 9 am for BC (usually reach BC 4-1/2 hrs, to C1 1-1/2 hrs). Couldn't reach C1 because snow neck deep and couldn't go up, so 8 members 13 Sherpas spent night in glacier at 5300m.

C1 5100m
C2 5450m

All night snow falling but warm; got wet but not too cold. Next am started 5:30 and reached C1 in 6-7 hrs but but couldn't see camp under 1m snow. Reached BC at midnight 13th Oct. 2-3 days rest at BC. 16th Oct again up and reached C1. 17th Oct reached C2. 18th Oct 2 members and 2 Sherpas reached C3. They dug in 5 hrs 5m and find all 3 tents broken (C2 was also under snow 2m only).

On 20th Oct finally found C3 and wanted to go next day to C4. 21 Oct very clear day but strong wind and had no tent, so couldn't go up and gave up and that day expedition abandoned attempts.

Same route as Yugoslavia 1965, Ramtang Glacier. If 5 days good weather after C4, would have had success with just one more camp.

Most difficult climbing between C3 and C4. 1000m fixed rope in steep snow.

No accidents, no illness, no yeti.

Others to Biratnagar - after 12 days reach Kathmandu.

1 Oct made C4
3 Oct to C2
5 Oct to BC
9 Oct to C2
10 Oct to C3
12 Oct to biv
13 Oct to BC
16 Oct to C1
17 Oct to C2
18-20 Oct at C3
21 Oct - no progress, decided to abandon.


ND Shrestha - 28 Oct 73

After 60 hrs continuous snowfall, way to summit abandoned attempt and returned to BC; trying to reach KTM by helicopter.


Yamanoi - 22 Oct 73

He arrived Kathmandu evening 20th Oct, vacation finished, 10 members including attempting summit maybe today. Until 26th climbing high altitude; think success because weather not so bad now.

C4 6550m 1 Oct by Yamanoi, Iwanaga and Terajuna and 4 Sherpas; stayed 2 days.

Chance to make C5 and try top but weather changed with much snow and wind; left tents and equipment. All members from C3 also evacuated to C2 because many avalanches and lower camps cannot support members in high camps.

After 1 week wait weather and go up again about 9th Oct. Until 14th Oct weather very good (Yamanoi left BC 11 Oct and Biratnagar 19th Oct). Others leave 24th Oct.

Route: 1st probably up new snow face and along W Ridge. If this not successful, diagonally across face. Base at Ramtang Glacier at 4700m.

Terajima - 31 yrs, ex-Tokyo magazine reporter, married


Takayama, Japanese - 31 Aug 73

Kangbachen expedition's approach route from Dharan via Taplejung and Ghunsa to base camp. Climbing route from Ramtang Glacier, or Kangchenjunga, to White Wave Ridge.