원정 개요

2 Japanese and 1 Sherpa killed in C5 when avalanche struck on 12 Oct.

Noro - 1 Nov 73

6 arrive yesterday 5 pm.

C5 6400m avalanche struck 12 Oct 11 pm at night sleeping time with 2 members and 1 Sherpa, sirdar Ang Nima. Avalanche came from 100m above. C5 highest point reached, established 12 Oct. Earthquake Oct 12.

Miss Nakata and Miss Ogawa reached C4 6350m. All members reached C4.
Bodies not found.

Route was SW Ridge. This route possible and summit could be reached in 2-3 days from C5 (C6 not necessary) according those in C5 walkie-talkie report.

BC 14 Sept 4400m
C1 17 Sept 4820m
C2 20 Sept 5800m
C3 24 Oct 5750m
C4 7 Oct 6350m
C5 12 Oct 6400m

Avalanche struck 11 pm 12 Oct

13 Oct bad weather prevents movement
14 Oct search for C5 but cannot find
15 Oct start withdrawn from mountain
20 Oct leave BC
Stay in KTM to meet sirdar Ang Nima's mother coming from Khumbu.


Noro, Fujita, etc - 23 Aug 73

All members now in KTM
Route via South Ridge, Kaphe Khola BC
Route goes north of point 5490m on Dhaula map

Leave KTM 28 Aug by truck. Caravan start from Pokhara 1 Sept, arrive BC 13 Sept.

C1 17 Sept 5000m
C2 21 Sept 5450m
C3 25 Sept 5750m
C4 3 Oct 6350m very near ridge

Summit 10 and 12 Oct, finish 21 Oct. Return caravan starts 22 Oct and reaches Pokhara 31 Oct, arrive KTM 2 Nov.

Route from C3 is new route, easy route.
1 sirdar Ang Nima, 3 Sherpas, 1 cook, 1 kitchen boy, 2 mailrunners
1st time in Nepal for all members. All members to summit.