원정 개요

Lorente - 4 June 74

Bad weather defeated them. 1st time just wind; 2nd and 3rd bad weather: snow and wind circles.

Ok at South Col, finished and no time to carry up more - 11 only left below C6 when there were more - all C6 provisions still there.

Remaining 3 members come tomorrow.


Felipe Uriarte - 31 May 74

2 frostbitten right fingers, will perhaps lose a little of one. Think monsoon began in Everest area 24-25 May. Japanese meterologist who visited BC and Sherpas said coming early this year, but AIR said nothing (but AIR often wrong).

For 13th May AIR said little but was 80 km/hr.

2 clear forecast days 14th and 26th.
14th - very bad weather with strong wind and snow
26th - day they gave up
After 25th could do nothing above C2.

22nd-23rd weather was good. 21st Abalde and Gallardo in C5, but Abalde not well and Sherpa not willing to go to summit. Abalde went down again on 22nd and Gallardo alone in C5.

23rd - Villar and Kirch came to C5
24th - weather not good wind and cloud
25th - worse
26th - 3 Spanish went down

12th - Rosen and Uriarte left C5 11:15 and searched C6 site 4 pm in very good condition; via left couloir, not Hillary Couloir (Italian and Japanese route). With 7 Sherpas (2 of whom without oxygen, all Sherpas down to C5)
- by 6 pm had tent up; 8:30 went to sleep on sleeping oxygen
- 11:00 pm woke up with fingers swollen and very painful; while erecting tent gloves wet, but didn't realize; slept again until 3:00 am.

13th 3:00 am got ready for summit ,but wind very strong. 5:30 both went out of tent, but wind so strong decided to wait. 11 am again went out and decided to go up but still same wind and saw clouds below and prepared to go down shortly after left C4, snow began. Went to C5; took long time without oxygen.

Slept without sleeping bag or mattress.
C5 and had to share one oxygen mask
3 Sherpas reached C5 with loads and descended

14th went to C4, no one in C5
15th Sherpas helped them down to C2, to open route since 1 meter snow had fallen on Lhotse face.

Without summit doesn't please him to have reached that height of 8500m; South Summit very very near.

Everest not technically difficult but very complex in weather, logistics, altitude effect coming all right at same time

Wants to come again to Everest because it is a beautiful mountain; is a big problem, always very interesting mountain: every year a new problem; for one climber is always a beautiful, no problem.

13 Sherpas went to C6 and were very good but none wanted to go to summit: thought then condition not good? or afraid? don't know.

LO Chotare on walkie-talkie on 2nd day send Ok for Sherpas to go to summit and Ang Dorje agreed but the day of good weather lost; Ang Dorje too late.


14 Jestha - 27 May (message's date)


Hamal, MFA - 28 May 74

Climb abandoned. Planned send 2 groups to top 11 Jestha. However group stayed 9-13 Jestha at C5 and because of bad weather 14th one returning from C5 and within 4 days expected in BC.

On 22 Jestha expedition reach KTM.


Wolfgang Nairz - 27 May 74

Saturday (25th) Everest weather bad (he flew to Tumlingtar). Sunday also bad. Today fine as friends report from mtn flight.


Glen Silveste - 24 May 74

"Yesterday the weather was sunny and clear all day. Look like being so again today."

Hillary expected back in Khunde on 24th.


25 May 74 - AIR Weather forecast

Occasional showers and thundershowers
9.5 km above sea level: winds WSW 100 Km/hr temperature, -30 degrees C
(7,6 Km ASL, 40 Km/hrs - 21 degrees)
Subsequent 24 hours, little change


Egusquitsa - 24 May 74

Today's mountain flight very smooth and no clouds over mountains


Ex-Basecamp, rec'd 23 May 74

Hillary at BC 23 May with film team.
Summit 24/25 May definitely Abalde and Gallardo in 21 in C4

AIR predicted high winds
60 Km/hr 4000m
140 Km/hr 9000m in these days


Alfonso from Calle Telegrams - 22 May 74

Plan on 19 May

20 May C2->C4: Abalde and Gallardo
21 May C4->C5: Villar and Kirch, one day behind
22 May C5->C6
23 May C6


Diez & Cortazar - 20 May 74

Left BC to arrange expedition affairs


MP Khanal, MFA - 19 May 74

After establish C6 at 8500m, members could not move forward because of bad weather and one of 2 members got frostbite in his 2 toes. They came down to BC 16 May and replaced by others.


Rosen - 12 May

Uriarte: 2 fingers frostbitten

13 May - C6
16 May - BC

21 or 22
2nd assault planned
C5 has equipment and axe

In C2 6 members, all strong

Gallardo and Abalde; probably 2nd assault team


Domingo - 28 Feb 74

Sun 24th Feb
26th - 3 flights
27th - 4 flights
28th - 4 flights
1st March - 2 flights
2-3 March - at least 6 or 7 flights
By 3rd March, all cargo and all members in Khumbu

By now 14 tons and 8 members in Lukla; now 50-50 KTM/LUK
Are one week late over first plans but now concerned.

Last truck load of equipment expected KTM tonight or tomorrow am.


Domingo - 26 Feb 74

Today to Lukla -> 4 members and 3000 Kg
Tomorrow and 3 more members in 4 or 5 flights
3 days more flights
Total flights about 20 by Twin Otter.


Lorente (via Domingo) - 14 Feb 74

Chotare = LO

Equipment on about 20th in KTM and fly to Lukla and all members will fly to Lukla. Base camp established 20 to end March with best acclimatization perhaps opening icefall after 20 March.


Domingo - 7 Feb 74

Rest arrive 15 or 16
Charters ex-Copenhagen
45 Sherpas (porters) total

All equipment by air to Lukla and all members also to Lukla. 20th Feb camp at Thyangboche with 7-10 days acclimatization climbing. Base camp about 10-15 March with everything there 20 March.

South Col route with oxygen.
17 tons equipment
16 members
10 Sherpas


Letter from BC - 28th March

Very urgent emergency medical casualty evacuation. Spanish subject Luis Domingo, age 28, lying critically ill expedition base camp Khumbu Glacier suffering acute high altitude pulmonary edema, patient on oxygen. Request royal flight helicopter evacuation soon as possible today 28 March landing ground reach by 1100 hours. Weather at 0900 windless sunny cloudless will keep radio open and pass weather. Report on request parties will be accompanied on flight by expedition.